[TheForge] Chop Saw Irritation

Tue Jan 29 13:43:10 2002

Thanks everyone for all the good tips.  A36 is a bugger to cut.  I've had no
problems with W1 or 1018.
RW
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Linn <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 12:09 AM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Chop Saw Irritation


> In my experience this is caused by the blade getting a glaze on it. If you
> bounce the blade a couple of times into the cut it will knock the glaze
> off. I know an old fabricator that uses a piece of scrap stock to bump
> against the edge of the blade to clean it up. I guess its acting like a
> belt sander that gets choked.
>
> Note of caution - bump the EDGE of the blade  - not the side....
>
> mike
>
>
>
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Miller, Ray (GEAE)" <[email protected]>
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 9:24 AM
> >Subject: RE: [TheForge] Chop Saw Irritation
> >
> >
> > > Has anyone noticed that while cutting through a piece of mild steel,
> > > especially hot-finished, that the sparks are abundant and the wheel
> >seems to
> > > be moving right through the piece, then suddenly, the sparks
> >diminish to a
> > > small stream and it seems that one has encountered a "hard spot".
> >Sometimes
> > > extra pressure seems to get the wheel through this spot but
> >sometimes
> > > nothing helps and the wheel just stays there not moving.  The
> >Instructions
> > > say, let the wheel do the work.  Do not bear down on the metal.  But
> > > frequently that does not work.  What is going on here?  What can be
> >done to
> > > resume a nice straight and easy cut?
> > > RW
> > >
>
>          Michael Linn
>        Artist Blacksmith
>       McCalla, Alabama
>        AFC Webmaster
> http://afc.abana-chapter.com
>
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