[TheForge] oxy/acet welding 1 1/2" square

Sun Jan 27 10:01:25 2002

At 06:59 AM 1/26/02, you wrote:

Sure RW...braising tends to fail a little below visible red and weakens 
somewhat below that. That's also the forging range for those rods and they 
forge real  nicely. Stop when you feel the metal begin to stiffen up.
RE the difficult arc, cranky rod ...if you hold the arc  rod a bit high ( 
long arc) right at first till the arc gets fired up  and stable and then 
keep a nice tight arc  from then on, it helps in rough conditions. Use 2 
hands and brace your elbows and forearms or wrists on something  solid.

>Thanks Pete.  Do you know at what temperature a braised joint would come
>apart?
>For example, would a braised joint holdup in a fireplace? RW
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Peter Fels and Phoebe Palmer <[email protected]>
>To: <[email protected]>
>Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 1:31 AM
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] oxy/acet welding 1 1/2" square
>
>
> > At 07:14 AM 1/25/02, you wrote:
> > RW, for this sort of thing  , I'll often preheat with a rosebud ( a multi
> > flame torch tip) then switch to a welding tip. Yes, the right size tip is
>a
> > necessity  . Yup that big stuff sure can suck a tank dry fast. There is a
> > limit to how much acet will come  out of the acetone it is dissolved in
>per
> > hour....especially on smaller tanks it is necessary to keep track.
> > Sometimes it is more cost effective to braise joints like that if you dont
> > have a buzz box......Pete
> >
> >
> >
> > >Thanks Peter.  The next time I want empty my 74 cu ft acetylene tank
>(after
> > >its refilled), I will try it again per your advice.  I also believe I
>need
> > >the right size tip next time.
> > >RW
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Peter Fels and Phoebe Palmer <[email protected]>
> > >To: <[email protected]>
> > >Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 10:55 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> > >
> > >
> > > > RW: Sure...lots of little stringer beads.
> > > > That is a pretty big bead to be practical for oxy acet but it can be
>done,
> > > > economics be damned.
> > > > First, V out the weld all the way around so you can get good
>penetration.
> > > > Next enclose the pieces to be welded in fire-bricks below and on both
> > > > sides. That will contain the heat to a great degree. Sometimes , if
>you
> > > > have almost enough heat to wet the surfaces of the base metal, but not
> > > > quite enough, Heat as hot as you can get it  and  turn up the acet so
>a
> > > > feather of unburned  fuel shows  around the inner cone of the flame.
>This
> > > > will introduce some extra carbon to the surface of the metal and lower
> > >it's
> > > > melting temperature enough to look wet and  thus get the weld to
>stick.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > At 05:31 AM 1/24/02, you wrote:
> > > > >Is it possible to butt weld 1 1/2" solid mild steel with a 230 amp
>max.,
> > >AC
> > > > >220v welder?
> > > > >It does not need to be a "structural weld", just to hold a fireplace
> > >grate
> > > > >frame together.
> > > > >I tried it with a #7 oxy/acet tip which is for 1 1/4" max and it is
>not
> > >much
> > > > >better than if I had used chewing gum.
> > > > >RW
> > > > >
> > > > >
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