[TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square

Sat Jan 26 01:40:01 2002

Just tell her how strong they are, I was a ticketed welder but I still have
trouble with some of the different rods, 7018 mainly, 6011 can be tricky
too.

----- Original Message -----
From: "RW" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square

> I used 6011 in 1/8.  Had trouble getting it started but it finally ran for
> me.  It is well stuck but it aint purdy.  Its been about 20 years since I
> used a stick and never was much good.  The welds will be hidden by
fireplace
> ashes.  However,  I need to hide them from my wife also because I always
> point out shoddy technique and workmanship on ironwork in her decorating
> magazines etc.  If she sees my "lovely beads", my aesthetic highground
will
> be lost for a long time.
> RW, the humble
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ralph Sproul <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
>
>
> > RW,  For penetration get some 6011 when using AC.  The 6013 and 7014
rods
> > are for deposition and smooth flow.  If you want some dig, strength,
fast
> > freeze, with a little rust or dirt - the 6011 is the best.   If you want
> to
> > do the least clean up and aren't worried about structural integrity use
> the
> > 6013.    I'd also get 1/8 rod for stringer beads if you are going to buy
> > just one size.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "RW" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:43 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> >
> >
> > > Thanks to all.  I need to buy some new dry rod.  Would you recommend
> 6013
> > > for this application?
> > > RW
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Miller, Ray (GEAE) <[email protected]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 9:10 AM
> > > Subject: RE: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> > >
> > >
> > > > Absolutely!! What you need to do is grind in a "weld Prep". Chamfer
> the
> > > ends
> > > > of each side of the butt joint. When you go to make the weld, not
> > actually
> > > > butt the ends together. Leave a gap, less than an 1/8" and then put
in
> a
> > > > root pass. The gap will improve your chances of good solid root pass
> > > fusion.
> > > > Then put in your cover passes until you have enough material to
grind
> > back
> > > > the surface for finishing. Or if esthetics is secondary, put in a
nice
> > > final
> > > > cover pass and your good to go.
> > > >
> > > > Ray Miller
> > > > Cincinnati, Ohio 4
> > > >
> > > > http://www.casealum.org/alumnuswinter2001/page6.htm
> > > >
> > > > http://www.uc.edu/profiles/rmiller.htm
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: RW [mailto:[email protected]]
> > > > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 AM
> > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > Subject: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Is it possible to butt weld 1 1/2" solid mild steel with a 230 amp
> max.,
> > > AC
> > > > 220v welder?
> > > > It does not need to be a "structural weld", just to hold a fireplace
> > grate
> > > > frame together.
> > > > I tried it with a #7 oxy/acet tip which is for 1 1/4" max and it is
> not
> > > much
> > > > better than if I had used chewing gum.
> > > > RW
> > > >
> > > >
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