[TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square

Thu Jan 24 12:30:08 2002

Question... if rod has "become damp", can it be dried?  Does it become
"dead" at some point?   "I know a barn"... second hand info, but if it
can be "salvaged"....

   Jeff   ><>

----- Original Message -----
From: "RW" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square

> Thanks to all.  I need to buy some new dry rod.  Would you recommend
6013
> for this application?
> RW
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Miller, Ray (GEAE) <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 9:10 AM
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
>
>
> > Absolutely!! What you need to do is grind in a "weld Prep".
Chamfer the
> ends
> > of each side of the butt joint. When you go to make the weld, not
actually
> > butt the ends together. Leave a gap, less than an 1/8" and then
put in a
> > root pass. The gap will improve your chances of good solid root
pass
> fusion.
> > Then put in your cover passes until you have enough material to
grind back
> > the surface for finishing. Or if esthetics is secondary, put in a
nice
> final
> > cover pass and your good to go.
> >
> > Ray Miller
> > Cincinnati, Ohio 4
> >
> > http://www.casealum.org/alumnuswinter2001/page6.htm
> >
> > http://www.uc.edu/profiles/rmiller.htm
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: RW [mailto:[email protected]]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:32 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: [TheForge] welding 1 1/2" square
> >
> >
> > Is it possible to butt weld 1 1/2" solid mild steel with a 230 amp
max.,
> AC
> > 220v welder?
> > It does not need to be a "structural weld", just to hold a
fireplace grate
> > frame together.
> > I tried it with a #7 oxy/acet tip which is for 1 1/4" max and it
is not
> much
> > better than if I had used chewing gum.
> > RW
> >
> >
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