Paint, the "traditional finish" (was Re: [TheForge] finish help)

Wed Jan 9 23:29:00 2002

I'm fairly certain the linseed/wax was strictly used as an indoor finish. Here
is a letter about clear exterior finishes (below).

Steve Smith

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 19:19:56 -0500
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Clear Finish for Exterior Ironwork

Good clear coatings are very hard to come by, yet they are so very important.

I Have a few clear coatings that I've been using which seem to be pretty
good.  None of these coatings will last forever,   although they are the best
I've tried so far, the different elements will change the life span of a
coating.  Sun and salty sea air will be the harshest.  Try to keep an eye on
the piece or at least give a disclaimer when it is sold or installed that it
will need to be maintained.  Make sure that there isn't any rust on the metal
before you apply the coating.  You need to seal all sides, cracks,
everything.   If you don't do either of these two things it dosen't matter
too much which brand of coating you put on.

Okay here they are - Agate Lacquer, tel:718 784 0660  add: 11-13 Forty-Third
Rd. Long Island City, NY 11101 / ask for #8A Lacquer and #8A Lacquer Thinner,
it mixes 50/50.   Next , Syncralac, made by Peacock Lab in Philadelphia tel:
215 729 4400 this is made for copper and bronze so you should add a corrosive
inhibitor for ferrous metal.  Ciba sells corrosive inhibitors -add: 540 White
Plains Rd - Tarrytown NY 10591 tel: 800 431 1900.  Ask for Irgacor #153.  You
add about 1% by volume to the coating.  Last one, XIM Company in Westlake,
Ohio tel: 800 262 8469.  Ask for the #900 Protective finish for ferrous
metals.

You can always put a wax on top of the clear coating to add more protection,
then maintain the wax.  You may also apply a hot coating of wax over the
metal (or the finish you have on the metal) then apply the clear coating then
the other layer of wax.  Get a good microcrystalline ( a good brand is
Liberon or Libertine) that wont gum up or yellow.  Call Bryant Lab in
Berkeley, California 800 367 3141

Try these coatings on your metal and throw them out back for a few seasons.
 Let me know what happens.  Just so it's a fair test to the coatings make
sure that there isn't any rust on the surface before you put the coating on.

If you can get a good clear coat you will be able to apply a transparent
finish (patina, dye, pigment, whatever) and then the metal will show through.
 Your work wont look like it is plastic or paint.

I would love to try out a coating that you like.  Let me know what your
using.

Ron Young

Shannell wrote:

> Is the linseed/wax combo what Yellin and others used on their outdoor
> pieces, recoating every couple of years??? If not does this hold up, Im
> doing some gates for our home and was thinking of trying an exterior clear
> coat, because its my house then reapplying a finish every year or so is no
> problem.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "thermoss" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 4:38 AM
> Subject: Re: Paint, the "traditional finish" (was Re: [TheForge] finish
> help)
>
> > and taste better.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: GHS <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:21 AM
> > Subject: Re: Paint, the "traditional finish" (was Re: [TheForge] finish
> > help)
> >
> >
> > > "You got beeswax in my linseed oil."
> > > "No, you got linseed oil on my beeswax."
> > >
> > > And a legend is born.
> > >
> > > Mike Graf, waiting for the coffee to kick in
> > >
> > >
> > > "Miller, Ray (GEAE)" wrote:
> > >
> > > > The beeswax makes it smell sweet....;-)
> > > > Ray Miller
> > > > Cincinnati
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Dave Brown [mailto:[email protected]]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 7:40 AM
> > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > Subject: Paint, the "traditional finish" (was Re: [TheForge] finish
> > > > help)
> > > >
> > > > At 06:58 01/09/02, you wrote:
> > > > >Depends on what you mean by "traditional finish". Most of the
> > architectural
> > > > >iron work I have seen (such as gates) that has lasted any length of
> > time
> > > > out
> > > > >doors has been painted, and rather thickly too.
> > > >
> > > > When you stop and think about it, just what is the linseed oil based
> > > > 'traditional finish' if not paint?  There was a time before water
> based
> > > > paints when most paints were oil based.  And what oil was that you
> > > > ask?  Linseed oil.  Yup, the basis for the blacksmith's "traditional
> > > > finish".
> > > >
> > > > I'm not positive, but it seems the addition of beeswax is done to keep
> > the
> > > > dried finish slightly flexible.  The dried linseed oil can be brittle
> > and I
> > > > think the wax reduces the brittleness to help it hold up a little
> better
> > > > and not chip so easy.  If this isn't the case, then why add the
> > > > beeswax?  Just for luster?  Any other thoughts on this out there?
> > > >
> > > > Dave Brown
> > > > Blacksmith/Tinsmith
> > > > Green Bay, WI
> > > > ABANA, UMBA, GoM, MODA, ARG
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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> > > --
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> > >
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