[TheForge] Civil War Period Chain Hardware

[Ed Fasula]

I have the pleasure of making a lifting clevis for a 10" bore Civil War 
period gun.  Does anyone have pictures or reference books so I can get an 
idea what they looked like?

Ed

At 08:59 PM 1/8/02 -0500, you wrote:
>NJBA did an anvil repair workshop around two years ago, if you go to :
>http://njba.abana-chapter.com/
>Then click on projects and event pictures, then Anvil repair at Greg 
>Phillips Shop 1999
>
>These are a few pictures of the event. WE used 7018 on the base metal and 
>a mig hard face on the faces.
>I would only recommend repairing the edges an doing the whole face is very 
>time consuming and grinding it more so.
>Larry Brown
>
>
>At 06:05 AM 1/8/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>>Thanks Steve,
>>     Do you know how thick the steel face is on a PW?  The edges have taken
>>some serious abuse, and I don't think it has ever been repaired before.
>>     The Dudley-Wright has signs of repairs.  I wonder if it was built the
>>same way, steel on wrought iron.  If so, then the same info would apply.
>>
>>     So to heat an anvil to 300 degrees without taking it into the wife's
>>kitchen...........  Set it on the forge and keep the air low? hum.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Larry
>>
>>Steve Smith wrote:
>>
>> > It sounds like you're not going to do the welding yourself; plenty of
>> > advice around theforge if you are.
>> >
>> > The difficulties I've seen come from the different types of steel and
>> > iron in the anvils. For instance, Peter Wrights have a hard top plate
>> > welded to a wrought iron body. The two materials need different rods for
>> > a successful weld. A good welder (without specific anvil experience)
>> > should be able to figure out rods that will stick (experimental process
>> > at worst). You not only have to make successful welds, you need to use a
>> > rod material that will hold up under typical use.
>> >
>> > The repairs I've done were with Stoody 1105 and 2110 rods. The 1105
>> > sticks well to the body of a PW, the 2110 works well on top. The 2110
>> > comes out just a little soft in my mind, but on the other hand it
>> > doesn't seem to chip. These aren't cheap rods.
>> >
>> > You must preheat the anvil before welding (300 degrees works, don't get
>> > up to 400 or you will start to lose your temper!).
>> >
>> > Steve Smith
>> >
>> > Larry wrote:
>> >
>> > > I have 3 anvils, a Peter Wright, a Dudley-Wright, and a
>> > > Hey-Budden.  All have various signs of mis-use and abuse.  I
>> > > was wondering what I need to know and avoid when having
>> > > these repaired/restored for use.  Is there someone in
>> > > central Texas that does this kind of work?
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > >
>> > > Larry
>> > >
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