[TheForge] Help! finish problem

Sun Feb 10 16:48:23 2002

Walt, I have used similar to what you describe for some things, but I think
what has been talked about so far is basically the Yellin finish which is to
add a protective coating but not to change the color of the metal, rather to
preserve and enhance the natural metal patina.

Harry Foster
Rusty Dog Forge

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of wmullett
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 10:29 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Help! finish problem

It seems they way I do my finish is different then most that have
contributed to this thread.

I just use linseed oil and bees wax.  (I was fortunate enough a couple of
years ago to get 3 12x12x2" cakes of beeswax at an auction for <$1.00)  I
have a small cast iron pot with a bail handle that I keep on my forge table.
It has about a cup of linseed oil in it with maybe 3-4 tablespoons of
beeswax shaved into it.  It sometimes gets some ash in it over time but that
doesn't seem to matter.  I just clean it out when it gets low and I start
fresh.

When I want to finish a piece, I move the pot into the heat hooking the bail
with my fire rake then move it out when its hot (just ready to boil).  I
apply it to black hot metal using a cotton T-shirt.

I want the metal hot enough to smoke but no catch my shirt on fire. I want
my first application to fully carbuerize on the piece.  I hold the rag
pretty loose and just dip a corner in the oil.  It's all hot so I just kind
of slosh it on getting everything covered well.  Usually I'll lay the piece
(or end I am finishing) back on the fire for 15-20 seconds to make sure the
first layer is blackened good.  Then I wipe it a second time and hang or lay
it down to cool.

The piece is not really wet at all when I'm through applying the finish.
This finish doesn't feel or look like a surface treatment.  It's hard,
durable inside, a nice black semi-gloss color and doesn't feel like it has
any thickness to it.

Walt

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