[TheForge] shrink fit techniques

Fri Feb 1 14:16:12 2002

Use a reamer.The collar will drop right on when hot and as others have
mentioned, this will not slip or come off. Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "RW" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] shrink fit techniques


> Bob, sounds good.  How does one find drill bits that are , for
example,
> .001 smaller than the hole?  Also,  are heating the collar and
hammering it
> onto the cold shaft?  Or, are you heating both pieces to the same
temp.?
> RW
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bergman <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 11:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] shrink fit techniques
>
>
> > I use .001" per inch diameter for a shrink fit. Make your hole
smaller
> > than the pin by this amount. You don't have to quench ,the metal
will
> > contract and hold. For a 1" pin use a hole .999.I have used this on
> > bigger items like saw collars shrunk on a shaft. Bob
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "RW" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 9:14 AM
> > Subject: [TheForge] shrink fit techniques
> >
> >
> > > I'm having varying degrees of success attaching metal parts
together
> > by the
> > > use of drilled holes filled with metal dowels using heat and a
quench
> > as the
> > > "adhesive".  If I heat 1 1/2" solid and insert a cold 1/4 or 3/8"
> > dowel and
> > > quench, the result is a tight secure joint.  But when I insert
this
> > piece
> > > (cold) into another  "hot hole" and quench, the second joint is
not as
> > tight
> > > as the first joint .  I really like this approach for many
> > applications and
> > > would like to perfect the "shrink fit technique".  Any knowledge
and
> > > experience with this technique is most welcome and appreciated.
> > > RW
> > >
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