[TheForge] LG dies, was cast iron - Little Giant pulley

Sun Aug 11 20:42:01 2002

Did they have spring washers on them?
I use socket head bolts on my air hammer dies and they have never once
loosened.

----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: 12 August, 2002 3:59 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] LG dies, was cast iron - Little Giant pulley

> just a comment on screwed down die systems. i went to the umba summer meet
yesterday. someone brought a bull hammer for the demontrator to use. the
socket head cap screws holding the upper die had to be picked up off the
floor and re tightened at least three times in the course of the day.
>
> bob s.
> ____________
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >Thanks for the tip about Sid's new system. I had been looking at the die
> >setups on some of the homebuilt air hammers out there and feeling a bit
> >green.
> >
> >I like the idea of a base in the hammer dovetails and then having die
> >faces which bolt on with cap screws and dowel pins for precise locating.
> >
> >I did a bit of research last night and checked out carpenterdirect.com
> >(thaks to Adam Whiteson). They have very good prices on tool steels from
> >what I could see. They list the price for a 10 to 12' length of 2.5"
diam.
> >  4140 round at about $140. This is certainly within my price range. I
> >imagine I could square up the round bar (to a 2" x 2.5" cross-section) in
> >my forging press, and then forge the dovetail taper with a carefully
> >machined set of double taper dies for the press. Perhaps a cleanup pass
or
> >two on the mill, but the bulk of the metal would be in the right place
> >from the forging.  If I can get this process figured out reasonably
> >smoothly, I could spend a weekend or two making up a bunch of die blanks,
> >then just forge/machine/grind the faces to suit whenever I need a new die
> >setup.
> >I know 4340 steel is a bit better match for hammer die tooling, but isn't
> >is quite similar to 4140? Anyone know of a reason not to use 4140 for a
> >#50 little giant die set?
> >
> >Thanks for the advice
> >
> >On Saturday, August 10, 2002, at 09:37 PM, Rick & Kims Email wrote:
> >
> >> Cameron,
> >> Before you go making dies, you  should check out the new die system
> >> that Sid is selling for LGs.  They consist of die bases that  fit into
> >> the dovetailed top and bottom ways.  Then the working dies bolt on to
> >> the bases.  So, it is quicker and less costly to switch from drawing
> >> to flat dies for example.  If you are going to make dies, you might
> >> want to purchase the bases cut for the divetails from Sid and make the
> >> business ends your self.
> >>
> >> Rick Korinek
> >> Emerald City Forge
> >> Framingham, MA
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: Cameron Stoker <[email protected]>
> >> To: <[email protected]>
> >> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:16 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [TheForge] cast iron - Little Giant pulley
> >>
> >>
> >> I just got done upgrading the belt system used on my #50 LG hammer. I
> >> had
> >> machined a 2.5" flat belt pulley, and used the flat canvas belt for
> >> quite
> >> a while, but I could never get it to stay on when the belt got oily
> >> (inevitable on  a lg).  I got so sick of it that I changed to a
> >> synchronous drive belt system (timing belt and pulley). You can order
> >> the
> >> belt and pulley from mcmastercarr.com for about $60.
> >> I went with a 1.5" wide belt with 1/2" pitch teeth and a pulley (H
> >> series,
> >>   16T, 2.8" o.d.), with double flanges for the motor, the belt just
> >> runs on
> >> the flats of the teeth on the spider of the l.g.
> >> It made a huge difference on my hammer - I think the flat belt had
> >> always
> >> slipped a little on the small motor pulley. In theory this setup gives
> >> my
> >> hammer about 400rpm. Is this too fast? Seems to work better than it
> >> ever
> >> did with a 2.5" pulley on the motor.
> >>
> >> I think I have a photo of it around here - I'll see if I can post it
> >> soon.
> >>
> >> Now I just have to tune up the clutch blocks on the hammer - I heard a
> >> good trick was to replace the hardwood blocks with chunks of UHMWPE
> >> (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene). They run smooth, and don't
> >> require that just right amount of oiling the wood blocks do.
> >>
> >> Also, I've been thinking of making some new hammer dies from a36 and
> >> then
> >> casehardening them with casenite. Has anyone tried this? I worry that
> >> the
> >> case won't do much to stop the die from deforming deeper down in the
> >> body
> >> of the die. I can't really afford $250-$350 per set of dies, and it is
> >> a
> >> real pain to machine tool steel on my 3-in-1 mill.
> >>
> >>
> >> On Friday, August 9, 2002, at 10:05 AM, Gladish Family wrote:
> >>
> >>> It's a cast iron 5 spoke pulley that somebody welded on, maybe in
> >> hopes
> >>> that
> >>> they could use a 3450 motor.
> >>> I have a  1725 with a 2" pulley, the original LG pulley is 10" which
> >> is
> >>> about right but the add-on makes it 13".
> >>> 2 to 10 is 5x reduction, 345 beats per minute, a bit slow, but the
> >> 2"
> >>> pulley
> >>> is really about 1 3/4 with the belts it's got.
> >>> 2 to 13 is 265 bpm which is about what it's running (counting beats
> >> for
> >>> fifteen seconds, x 4) and it won't strike well at "full speed"
> >> because it'
> >>> s
> >>> not cycling at full speed. The outer pulley's got to go. Its not
> >> very well
> >>> balanced, either- you can see that the inner (original) is running
> >> true
> >>> and
> >>> the outer is wobbling. The babbitt it rides on will have to be
> >> re-poured,
> >>> too, since the wobble made it old before its time.
> >>> Thanks, Peter- I'd forgotten about cutting with the welder since I
> >> got all
> >>> these other tools ;-)
> >>> Worth a try, since I'm going by Sid's soon.
> >>> Andy G.
> >>>
> >>>> First, I doubt this pulley is making your unit run slow.  It does
> >> add
> >>>> mass
> >>>> and would affect startup but otherwise it would work as a flywheel.
> >>>>
> >>>> If this pulley is mounted between the bearings and you see a
> >> wobble,
> >>>> something more serious may be the problem.  It may be your shaft
> >>>> is not true
> >>>> and you can see the affect on the pulley.
> >>>>
> >>>> Is this a flat belt pulley mounted on the top shaft outside the
> >> bearings?
> >>>>
> >>>> What are you cutting, the shaft or are you cutting up the pulley?
> >>>>
> >>>> If this pulley is mounted on the outside, you can use a puller to
> >>>> remove it.
> >>>> If it's mounted between the bearings, you can remove the shaft
> >>>> and then take
> >>>> off the pulley and check your shaft.
> >>>>
> >>>> I think it will be easier to remove the whole pulley as a unit
> >> rather
> >>>> than
> >>>> cutting it off.  It would be better if you remove it all rather
> >> than just
> >>>> the spokes and rim.
> >>>>
> >>>> Walt
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Gladish Family <[email protected]>
> >>>> To: Theforge@Mailman. Qth. Net <[email protected]>
> >>>> Date: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:41 AM
> >>>> Subject: [TheForge] cast iron
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> Anybody got the secret to cutting cast iron?
> >>>>> Somebody back in the ancient mists of time added a dorky outer
> >>>> pulley to my
> >>>>> Little Giant, causing it to wobble and run too slow. I tried to
> >>>> cut it off
> >>>>> of there with the torch and it looked like it was going to make
> >>>> a mess, and
> >>>>> the sawzall isn't working either...
> >>>>> Andy G
> >>>>>
> >>>>> No matter what happens, somebody will find a
> >>>>> way to take it too seriously.
> >>>>>                        Dave Barry
> >>>>>
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> >>>>>
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> >>>>
> >>>
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> >>>
> >>                                       Cameron Stoker
> >>     "May you run like a vicu�a!"
> >>                                       [email protected]
> >>
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> >>
> >                                      Cameron Stoker
> >    "May you run like a vicu�a!"
> >                                      [email protected]
> >
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