[TheForge] machining degree wedges

Sat Aug 10 11:03:01 2002

        Bob, Thanks once again.  I hadn't thought about annealing the cold
roll I've been using for the die keys.......good idea once again, I'll try
that.

Ralph


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bergman" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] machining degree wedges


> Ralph, I made some "set up" tapers by stacking gage blocks under one end
> of a piece of annealed cold rolled. Annealing it first helped with the
> curling. I got close on the mill, then used a surface grinder to finish
> , flipping the piece over occassionally. One is 1/8th per foot, the
> other 1 degree. They are about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long.
>  To mill new tapers I use these like a tapered parrallel to kick a new
> piece of cold rolled over to the correct angle. Square up the new piece
> if necessary so you get a good hold on the sides.
>  I also have a shaper with a vise that adjusts to angles. With that I
> support the new piece a little above the vise jaws on parallels and cut
> off the top. The shaper doesn't seem to warp the piece as  much as the
> mill. Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ralph Sproul" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 7:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] machining degree wedges
>
>
> >         Bob,  Thank you.
> >
> >         When your milling the wide plates to an angle, do you clamp
> them in
> > the vice in a set of angle blocks? or tag them to the table and mill
> in
> > between the dawg downs?
> >         The reason I'm asking is every tapered  key I've cut has a
> curve to
> > it like the grain has been disturbed and it curls up on the end.  Do
> you
> > flip keys or the wide plates when cutting them to split the
> distortion? or
> > control this curling?
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Bergman" <[email protected]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 3:28 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] machining degree wedges
> >
> >
> > > Ralph, I find most keys to be 1/8th in. per foot or 1 degree. When
> wider
> > > ,I think it is from wear and I try to remachine the dovetail area.
> I
> > > use .017" for 1 degree. I will machine a wide plate with the taper
> and
> > > saw off widths that I need.Bob
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ralph Sproul" <[email protected]>
> > > To: <[email protected]>
> > > Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:55 PM
> > > Subject: [TheForge] machining degree wedges
> > >
> > >
> > > >         On most of the die keys the taper of the key is 1,  1 1/2,
> or
> > > 2
> > > > degrees.  I was trying to figure out what the actual measure per
> inch
> > > is and
> > > > consulted a chart in the trigonometry book.  It looks like charts
> show
> > > a
> > > > proportionate ratio between parts of a triangle.......so is it the
> > > Sine or
> > > > the Tangent you are concerned with when setting up a wedge, ram,
> and
> > > > dovetail taper??
> > > >         I noticed the numbers are insugnificant(as far as a
> > > difference) in
> > > > the 1 & 2 degree chart, but which one is it when you get to larger
> > > angles?
> > > > Just wondering if anyone has any machinery layout experience in
> this.
> > > >         So is the bottom line  - a 1 degree angle should be .017
> per
> > > inch,
> > > > and a 2 degree angle should be .035 per inch?..........is that
> what
> > > those
> > > > charts are saying?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ralph
> > > >
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