[TheForge] Corkscrews

[Chris Worsley]

A mandrel would be a heat sink, and I never even considered using one. Just curl
and roll. If you work hot enough, it goes quickly and evenly.  As the coil cools,
it will grip the mandrel.

Chris
Alexandria VA

Mike Linn wrote:

> An appropriately sized lag bolt would act as a properly shaped mandrel and
> accurately space the turns. If the turns are not even it will chew up the cork.
>
> mike
>
> At 07:50 PM 12/18/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >I have made a lot of corkscrews, and the answers to the question seem to be
> >making it harder than necessary. No, they do make it harder than necessary!
> >First, start with the stock that you want to use for the handle.  Leave what
> >you need for the handle, and neck down and draw out and round up the material
> >for the screw.  I make the screw a little more than 1/16" thick, centered on
> >the handle stock.  Be uniform. Put a point on the end. I make the screw about
> >4" - 4�" long, as I recall.
> >Bend 90� at the point where the screw and handle meet. You'll actually be
> >bending the thin material of the screw.
> >Start "rolling" and forming a coil of the screw material with the hammer
> >on the
> >face of the anvil. (There is no need to say that all of this is being done
> >hot,
> >is there?)
> >Be sure that you roll in the appropriate direction to make either a right
> >handed or left handed corkscrew. Keep the coils of the screw the same diameter
> >and touching each other. They should line up like a closed spring with the
> >desired center opening as you roll the screw.
> >When you run out of material, reheat and pry open the coils with a
> >screwdriver.
> >I made a "pryer"  with a 'T' handle that is easy to twist. True up so outside
> >of screw is parallel and spacing is even.
> >Now you have the screw, almost as long as a cork and even in appearance.
> >If the
> >screw does not track in the hole that the point makes, it will just shred the
> >cork and make a mess.
> >With the remaining material, forge the handle.
> >Keep it hot while doing all this. If you don't it will probably break off at
> >the necked down spot.
> >So, no mandrel is necessary. No joinery is necessary. Only time and practice.
> >I have not explained every little detail, but there is enough here to get you
> >started.  You have to use your own experience to get through life and
> >blacksmithing.
> >
> >Chris
> >Alexandria, VA
> >
> >
> > >
> > > What's the best way to make a corkscrew?  Wrap around a mandrel?  Forge
> > over
> > > the side of the anvil?