[Rover] External Battery Power in a 2011 Honda Pilot Questions for my Rover]

[Austin]

Hmm... This is very interesting because it just so happens that I
already had #6 gauge wire run directly from the car battery to the back
"trunk" of the pilot with Fuses on both sides right beside the battery. 
I did this for my normal day to day mobile operation. I have pics on my
web page (not self-promoting, just saying in case someone wanted to see
what I am referring to).
If I use that connection, then I will definitely need an isolation
circuit. My biggest concern then with the ISOpwr device is that it
appears to have a 40amp limit before the fuses will blow.

The plan is to run the vehicle the entire time with the exception being
while filling up with Gas. For the safety of the guy pumping the gas
(me), no transmissions will be going on while I am standing a few feet
from the antennas with a highly flammable liquid in my hand. Ha Ha!

I was tempted to get a battery booster also, but was concerned with the
amp ratings as I would hate to hit the key on two amplifiers at the same
time and blow a bunch of fuses in the middle of the contest.

73,

Austin
www.k4amk.us


 -------- Original Message --------
 Subject: Re: [Rover] External Battery Power in a 2011 Honda Pilot
 Questions for my Rover
 From: Rick R <rick1ds at hotmail.com>
 Date: Sat, September 04, 2010 9:37 pm
 To: rover reflector <rover at mailman.qth.net>, VHF REFLECTOR
 <vhf at w6yx.stanford.edu>

 I cannot answer all of your questions, but I have 6 additional
 batteries in my van, 2 each in parallel running 3 different circuits
 (inverter and micros; 2 main transceivers; amplifiers). My 400W 2m
 amp draws 50+ amps as an example, and it's the biggest. I have a 180W
 432 amp that takes about 36 amps. It drains the batteries fairly
 rapidly, and I keep the engine running for much of the time,
 especially to keep the voltage up at about 13.5V. If the batteries go
 to 12V or lower, the outputs all fall lower. BUT--the main thing I
 want to relay is that whatever the trailer hitch wiring is, it is
 unlikely that it will handle 50 amps. You need #8 wire or better for
 that current. I use #8 and a 50Amp fuse coming from the van battery
 to my charge distribution system. I use a 100amp solenoid switch. No
 ordinary 15 amp switch can handleheavy currents. Pay close attention
 to the ratings of all thecomponents you use when handling these big
 currents. I also have the "battery boosters" that
 can keep the voltage to the gear at the desired setting, even when
 the batteries run below 12V. Having the WestMountain isolator will be
 useful for this. It will allow you to charge the additional
 in-parallel batteries without the danger of losing your car starting
 ability. DON'T use the harness for the trailer--unlikely it can
 handle the large current needed for your brick amps. Also, have a
 fire extinguisher available, just in case all this heavy current
 decides to heat a connection. If possible, monitor both the battery
 voltages and the usage/charging current. I have a 0-15VDC meter and a
 0-50A ammeter. How many amps does the alternator in the Honda supply?
 GL, 73, Rick, K1DS

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