[R-390] Gear Train Removal

[Jim Whartenby]

Tom
This is similar to what I have done.  I do a four step process with a spray and scrub with WD-40 as a solvent, spray and scrub with Krud Kutter as a detergent, a spray water rinse and then a spray alcohol rinse as a water release agent.  I use an acid brush attached to a dowel to reach into the gearworks and repurposed spray bottles to apply the liquids.  

Repeat the above as many times as needed but always end with water then alcohol rinse.  My feeling is that neither WD-40 nor Krud Kutter will attack all deposits found in the gearworks.  Nothing special about Krud Kutter except that it doesn't appear to attack aluminum, not sure about other similar products.
Regards,
Jim
Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.  Murphy 

    On Tuesday, September 3, 2024 at 08:09:04 AM CDT, Thomas Hoyer <thoyer1 at verizon.net> wrote:   

  I do the "WD40" Bath to clean the gear trains. I get a big can, remove the RF deck, Place it over a pan and start spraying. I'll use a tooth brush, acid brush, q-tips or whatever needed to help clean the hard to get to areas. The WD40 does a good job at breaking up the old grease / lube. Once everything is loosened up and turning freely I'll let it sit for a day to let the WD40 drip off and go back and lubricate the pivot / rotating points. Right or wrong, I do not lube the gear teeth. I'll end up using pretty much the whole can.
Just did a 390A for a local guy. Tuning was hard and clunky. After the above described treatment it is now very smooth. Owner was very impressed!
TomW3TA


    On Tuesday, September 3, 2024 at 12:39:20 AM EDT, Larry Haney <larry41gm2 at gmail.com> wrote:   

 Hi all,  I've had a bunch with over lubed or incorrectly lubed gears,
tuning racks and cams, and a few under lubed digital readouts, but
fortunately nothing so bad as to seriously impair operation.  I guess I've
been lucky.  And no worn gears.

Regards, Larry

On Mon, Sep 2, 2024 at 8:16 PM Jim Whartenby via R-390 <
r-390 at mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I think that the tendency is to over do gear lubrication, not under do
> it.  The Preliminary R-390 manual says "It must be remembered that over
> lubrication can cause more harm then no lubrication."  I tend to agree
> having bought an R-390A from the late Hank Arney that was so over greased,
> the kc and mc knobs were frozen.  A lot of solvent, detergent and denatured
> alcohol using an acid brush mounted on a dowel to get deep into the gear
> works finally freed the binding.  There was no need to do a complete
> teardown.
>
> Our brother collectors of clocks do not lube gear teeth, just pivot
> points, and sparingly.  The thought is that grease attracts dust and dirt
> which does more harm then good.  In the half dozen R-390A I have reworked,
> I have yet to find a worn gear.  Has anyone?
>
> YMMV,
> Jim
> Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.
> Murphy
>
>    On Monday, September 2, 2024 at 05:55:29 PM CDT, Barry <
> n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
>
>  While I have the RF Deck out, I'm going to clean and lubricate the gears,
> rollers, etc.  Reading the manual, apparently the from "apron" of the gear
> train can be removed without all that much difficulty.  If I remove that
> apron, do the gears stay with the main part of the deck or does some of
> them come off with the apron?
>
> I'm asking because, while I'm still considering a complete teardown (which
> is just a bit more daunting than the A model which I've done before), it
> might be good enough if I can maximize the exposure of the gears and just
> settle for cleaning/lubing them in situ.  Any comments on that?
>
> Thanks,
> Barry - N4BUQ
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