[R-390] Gear Train Removal

Barry n4buq at knology.net
Mon Sep 2 23:28:45 EDT 2024


I agree.  I removed the VR counter just so I could clean behind it and there was so much gunk there.  It looked like someone had used some spray lube that had attracted dirt and grime.  After I washed the counter, it runs with much less torque.  Same for the split gears on the KC gear/clutch assembly.  It's already starting to move better and I'm just getting started cleaning it up.  I enjoy this part about as much as any part of working on these radios.  I just don't like working on a dirty piece of electronic equipment.

Barry - N4BUQ

> I think that the tendency is to over do gear lubrication, not under do it.  The
> Preliminary R-390 manual says "It must be remembered that over lubrication can
> cause more harm then no lubrication."  I tend to agree having bought an R-390A
> from the late Hank Arney that was so over greased, the kc and mc knobs were
> frozen.  A lot of solvent, detergent and denatured alcohol using an acid brush
> mounted on a dowel to get deep into the gear works finally freed the binding.
>   There was no need to do a complete teardown.
> 
> Our brother collectors of clocks do not lube gear teeth, just pivot points, and
> sparingly.  The thought is that grease attracts dust and dirt which does more
> harm then good.  In the half dozen R-390A I have reworked, I have yet to find a
> worn gear.  Has anyone?
> 
> YMMV,
> Jim
> Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.  Murphy
> 
>    On Monday, September 2, 2024 at 05:55:29 PM CDT, Barry <n4buq at knology.net>
>    wrote:
> 
> While I have the RF Deck out, I'm going to clean and lubricate the gears,
> rollers, etc.  Reading the manual, apparently the from "apron" of the gear
> train can be removed without all that much difficulty.  If I remove that apron,
> do the gears stay with the main part of the deck or does some of them come off
> with the apron?
> 
> I'm asking because, while I'm still considering a complete teardown (which is
> just a bit more daunting than the A model which I've done before), it might be
> good enough if I can maximize the exposure of the gears and just settle for
> cleaning/lubing them in situ.  Any comments on that?
> 
> Thanks,
> Barry - N4BUQ
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