[R-390] Painting Knobs
robert meadows
rpmeadow at bellsouth.net
Fri Aug 16 13:07:54 EDT 2024
Use better paint. Sherwin Williams Acrolylon 218 is my recommendation.R
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On Friday, August 16, 2024, 12:49 PM, Barry <n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
>From what I've experienced with these knobs as well as knobs I worked on many years ago from some R-390A models, I suspect they were painted with polane or something equivalent. Aircraft stripper used to work on that fairly well but not so much with the newer stripper. No other chemical I tried would cut it and the primer is even more difficult to remove.
The more I read about DIY power coating, the more I'd like to try it. I had some knobs powder coated many years ago but the place where I had that done applied a much-too-thick coating and I wasn't very pleased with it. I think the DIY powder may be different from what they used and perhaps I could control the thickness better. If that would work, it would probably be the best method.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
> I found on line Mil-F-14072, the spec on finish, that is listed in the knob
> drawings. Both knob finishes (P516D and P612D) have been deleted from the 4
> October 1990 dated document. So no help chasing documents to find the paint
> and process descriptions.
> Curious that the Final Engineering Report on the R-389/R-390, dated 15 Sept 1953
> says that the Manufacturing Drawings and Specifications may be used to
> supplement this engineering report. But the drawings for the knobs are dated
> January, 1956 both of which list the original R-390 (non A) contract
> 14214-PH-51-93.
> It seems to me that about two years and four months is a long time to go through
> the drawing approval process! Perhaps there was an earlier set of drawings
> just for the non-A design?JimLogic: Method used to arrive at the wrong
> conclusion, with confidence. Murphy
>
> On Friday, August 16, 2024 at 10:33:47 AM CDT, Barry <n4buq at knology.net> wrote:
>
> Also, I cleaned the surfaces with acetone and let that dry (very quick drying
> time for acetone) before priming.
>
> Barry - N4BUQ
>
>> Jacques,
>>
>> I allowed the primer to dry overnight, painted the top coat, set it in the sun
>> for a couple of hours to help the curing process, let it sit overnight, and
>> then tried the scratch test. I'm not so much concerned about the top coat
>> being all that hard at that point but I am concerned that the primer doesn't
>> want to stick to the metal. I wouldn't think the primer needs heat curing to
>> stick, would it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Barry - N4BUQ
>>
>>> Barry, IMHO, if you tried a "fingernail test" just few hours after the knob
>>> was painted, it is normal.
>>> Most paints can take a week or more to harden.
>>> The trick I used was to put mine under the summer sun once they were painted
>>> with the Krylon Dual-superbond, and they were "holding" such fingernail
>>> test.
>>> You can also use a small oven at 200F to promote the paint hardening.
>>>
>>> 73, Jacques, VE2JFE in Montreal
>>>
>>> Welp, I give up. I tried priming one knob with a non-etching primer and a
>>> top coat. I can take my fingernail and easily scratch the paint off down to
>>> the bare metal. Sigh... Maybe I'll have them chrome plated.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Barry - N4BUQ
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