[R-390] Cutting Aluminium Plate

[Ben Loper]

It's probably cheaper to buy them on eBay 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 28, 2016, at 04:30, jbrannig <jbrannig at verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> I have used a fine panel cutting blade to cut aluminum on a radial arm saw.
> The trick is to cut BACKWARDS.....
> This works with chassis and rack panel thickness.
> Jim
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
> -------- Original message --------From: Charles Steinmetz <csteinmetz at yandex.com> Date: 10/28/16  3:49 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [R-390] Cutting Aluminium Plate 
> Perry wrote:
> 
>> Some of my A's are missing the Utah plate.
>> I have some very nice sheeting of about the same thickness.
>> I'd like to cut them on my table saw that has a new 10 inch 40 tooth carbide blade.
>> Good idea? Bad idea?  Pitfalls to avoid?
> 
> 40 teeth is WAY, WAY too coarse to cut aluminum of any kind, and most 
> especially thin sheets.  You need a 100-tooth "non-ferrous metal" blade. 
>   And unless you have a very good table saw, you won't have enough power 
> to cut aluminum with a 10" blade.  Most folks use 7-1/4" or 8" blades 
> for this (even if they DO have a very good saw).
> 
> Aluminum tends to catch the saw teeth and buck, so you need very good 
> blade guards that hold the workpiece firmly down on the table, and 
> anti-kickback prevention.
> 
> Cutting aluminum makes LOTS of noise. Neighbors-may-call-the-police 
> loud.  It sounds like a thousand angry monkeys screaming.
> 
> A metal-cutting bandsaw is a much better tool for this job.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Charles
> 
> 
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