[R-390] Cutting Aluminium Plate

[Alan Victor]

Cut mine out with a hacksaw. Took about 15 minutes. Laminated a photo
image of the LC xmfr networks and the alignment blocks into plastic and
attached that to the plate. Images came from the Y2K manual. Looks FB. Alan

On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 12:49 AM, Charles Steinmetz <csteinmetz at yandex.com>
wrote:

> Perry wrote:
>
> Some of my A's are missing the Utah plate.
>> I have some very nice sheeting of about the same thickness.
>> I'd like to cut them on my table saw that has a new 10 inch 40 tooth
>> carbide blade.
>> Good idea? Bad idea?  Pitfalls to avoid?
>>
>
> 40 teeth is WAY, WAY too coarse to cut aluminum of any kind, and most
> especially thin sheets.  You need a 100-tooth "non-ferrous metal" blade.
> And unless you have a very good table saw, you won't have enough power to
> cut aluminum with a 10" blade.  Most folks use 7-1/4" or 8" blades for this
> (even if they DO have a very good saw).
>
> Aluminum tends to catch the saw teeth and buck, so you need very good
> blade guards that hold the workpiece firmly down on the table, and
> anti-kickback prevention.
>
> Cutting aluminum makes LOTS of noise. Neighbors-may-call-the-police loud.
> It sounds like a thousand angry monkeys screaming.
>
> A metal-cutting bandsaw is a much better tool for this job.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Charles
>
>
>
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