[R-390] Front Panel Restoration ER Don Reaves

[Cecil]

I'd be curious to know how you guys are handling the soda that goes everywhere and kills the plants.  I killed a spot in the back yard when I stripped my R-390 panel a while back....just now supporting life again...

Is there a better way?

Would be nice to contain it and wash it down the drain or some such..  (I'll probably get spanked for that notion)

Cecil

Sent using recycled electrons.

> On Jul 17, 2015, at 2:32 PM, Don Reaves <donreaves at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> No need for any apologies, Glenn.  I was happy to make my small
> contribution to your article because you introduced me to the effectiveness
> of soda blasting.  I am using soda blasting with good to excellent results
> for all sorts of restoration projects, including removing peeling latex
> paint from home exteriors.  But I didn't spend big bucks for professional
> equipment.  I used the soda blaster kit available from the Chinese Junk
> Shoppe, AKA Harbor Freight, and my standard shop air compressor, a
> Devilbliss 5CFM at 90 PSI, 20 gal. tank.  It works but I do have to go slow
> to allow the compressor to keep up.   I did add an extra air line filter at
> the blaster tank air input and only use the setup on lower humidity days
> outdoors.  I'm not doing R-390 panels - mostly I'm stripping and repainting
> WWII era black wrinkle painted gear like ARC-2 and BC-348 cabinets, and
> some custom rack panels that match ART-13 panels.
> 
> The purpose of the zinc chromate is bonding to clean bare aluminum for
> paint adhesion.   Just painting bare aluminum panels without proper primer
> means you will be repainting again when it starts flaking off.     Steve
> mentioned Bulldog adhesion promoter.  I'll have to try that.  There are
> other primers for aluminum, such as Marhyde self-etching primer and
> aluminum "brighteners" like Duragloss 851, which contain an acid that
> lightly etches bare aluminum that promotes paint adhesion.  Lately, I'm
> getting interested in powder coating my projects since I found that black
> wrinkle media is available for power coating.  As is machine gray.   Hmm.
> 
> Painting is an art, not a science.  I'm on my third try now trying to get a
> good match repainting the matching power supply (Navy CT-20086)  for an RBM
> receiver.   I get a good paint color/texture match but botch the job with a
> paint run, or get a good paint covering but the color/texture is off.
> Hats off to guys like Glenn that get consistent professional results!
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