[R-390] RF deck removal

[Alan Victor]

Excellent Roger. Thanks. I believe that will be my first course of action.
If the need to go beyond a cleaning of the gear box is apparent, then so
be. However, if the CAMs and other elements are reasonably on the mark, say
less than 3 kHz error on any one piece, PTO, cam, switch, etc... Then I am
most likely to keep it simple at first. Charles suggested the kerosene or
mineral spirits  as the flush agent in lieu of WD40. And in hindsight I do
recall prior work where WD40 leaves a residue behind that is difficult to
remove. That was a worthwhile flag.

Alan

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Roger Ruszkowski <
flowertime01 at wmconnect.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> You should be able to turn the RF deck up on end on the bench and
> looking into the bottom see every thing you need to see.
>
> I have been working on these critters and giving them baths, repairs and
> alignments since the
> summer of 1968 and never have I taken an RF gear train apart more than a
> gear or two to get
> a new clamp in where one had broken or install new springs for the anti
> lash.
>
> There is merit in doing a full tear down but I have not personally needed
> to do it yet.
>
> You can watch the operation of what needs to be seen with out a
> disassembly of the RF gears.
> You can hang the gear train off the end of the table in the yard and run
> lots of water, soap, solvents, compressed
> air and oils  through the gears until it is clean enough and lubed.
>
> Then let it set in the sun for a couple more hours to completely dry out.
>
> Roger.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Victor <amvictor at ncsu.edu>
> To: Roger Ruszkowski <flowertime01 at wmconnect.com>
> Cc: r-390 <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 2:55 pm
> Subject: Re: [R-390] RF deck removal
>
>  Hi Roger, agree. However, the panel I was referencing is the gear train
> front panel, not the main frame front panel. All of the items you mentioned
> in this post are mainframe front panel items and I agree, those require
> attention in the process of getting to the RF deck. Now to investigate the
> intermittent gear and the MHz switch alignment, not sure if the gear case
> front panel needs removed. Is it possible to view proper MHz switch and
> intermittent gear alignment by looking at the BOTTOM front of the gear
> train? As well the 2 front lower CAMs when the KC dial is set to 7+000. If
> all those items seem reasonable as well as the contact points on the MHz
> wafer switch,  then I may initially clean the gear case in tact with
> liberal WD40 and paint brush.
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Roger Ruszkowski <
> flowertime01 at wmconnect.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Alan,
>>
>> You wrote, ----------------------------
>> I am going to have to pull the front panel off the gear train. This
>> requires removing the veeder root counter and some small gears etc.
>> ---------------------------------
>>
>> Not true.
>>
>> The bezel (black box with micro scope glass slide as a window) comes off
>> with the front panel.
>> The veeder root counter and its gears are mounted to the front of the
>> gear train.
>> You do not have to undo any of the counter parts to remove the panel.
>>
>>
>> But some more things to look at.
>>
>> You do have to loosen the dial lock and rotate it.
>> First time around just take the knob off the dial lock and remove the
>> bushing nut
>> on the dial lock and let it fall loose. As you drop the front panel it
>> will fall out.
>> Then you get a look at what's going on so you can loosely hand the dial
>> lock back into
>> the front panel for reassembly.
>>
>> One of the Fellows pointed out that you also have to pull a wire harness
>> clamp loose on the bottom
>> in front of the audio deck near the local line pot from the front to back
>> frame panel between the
>> VFO and the audio decks. This is where you reach in with the long #1
>> Philips screw driver.
>> You will need this slack. Do this first then,
>>
>> If you are going to pull the RF deck also remove the spring to the VFO
>> Oldham coupler.
>>
>> Use a couple blocks of 2x2 or 2x4 under the side rails to prop the front
>> panel off the bench.
>>
>>
>> Two big knobs.
>> Dial lock.
>> Antenna trim knob.
>> IF band width switch extension shaft clamp.
>> BFO pitch extension shaft clamp.
>> Dial lock.
>> Wire harness clamp.
>> five 8 x32 face plate bolts three under BFO band width knobs, two more
>> between line gain and KC knob.
>> Eight 10 x32 four down each front rail. Again the slender Philips screw
>> drive lets you reach around the guard rails (not handles, used as handles)
>>
>>
>> If you have a burr on the KHZ or MHZ shafts and the panel bushings will
>> not slide over the burr, you can take the nuts
>> off the bushings and leave the bushing on the shaft until you have time
>> to hone the burr off the shaft.
>> On reassembly you loosen the bushings and re center than as needed.
>>
>> There are also three green screws along the back of the RF deck with
>> tight clearance that must be loosened, they are captive.
>> The long 6 - 10 inch small diameter Philips screw driver is the preferred
>> tool for this task.
>>
>> Total time to drop a front panel under fifteen minutes with beverage.
>>
>> Roger AI4NI
>>
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