[R-390] Suggestions for better soldering iron or techniques?

[Barry]

Hi Bob,

It isn't the braid that's the problem.  I'm not getting things _that_ hot.  It's the inner conductor's insulation.  It's not burning it through and down inside the wire, etc., just melting it a bit towards the end.

Unfortunately, there's not much slack for some of these cables to create new ends and I'm trying to work with what's already there.  There's just not much room for any kind of heat sink, etc.

Hopefully a cooler iron will help.  I'll find out soon.

Yeah, it's a 1030 I probably overpaid for that needed restoration.  I have a 1060 I bought new back when that I also need to refurb but I wanted to "learn" a bit on the 1030.  I had to remove the main boards from the chassis in order to clean up some rather nasty corrosion.  The 1060 doesn't have this so I plan to leave the boards in place (at least as much as possible) and replace parts in situ.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
> From: "rbethman" <rbethman at comcast.net>
> To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thursday, August 7, 2014 12:07:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [R-390] Suggestions for better soldering iron or techniques?
> 
> Barry my friend,
> 
> I'd tin the braids first.
> 
> I'd also exit the insulated wire a longer distance back from where
> you
> are doing so now.
> 
> Your Soldering Iron is really applying too much heat to the "cluster"
> of
> braiding shield and unless you try what I'm suggesting, you will only
> end up replacing every single wire with braiding shield, in a futile
> attempt to find a solution.
> 
> Hope a try at this shows a working method for you.
> 
> The Old Marantz from late '60s or early '70s will love you!
> 
> Bob - N0DGN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 8/7/2014 12:29 PM, Barry wrote:
> > A while ago, I posted a need for some tips for a pencil-style
> > soldering iron and a generous list member sent me a few
> > replacements (thanks Foster!).
> >
> > While I received some friendly comments regarding the use of a
> > "wood burning tool" for soldering, I still use this iron and it
> > works well for the most part; however, I'm trying to solder some
> > things for which this iron is not working well.
> >
> > The item (an older Marantz solid-state stereo amplifier) has some
> > somewhat larger soldering posts to which the interconnecting
> > cables were soldered and I'm in the process of reassembling it and
> > reconnecting these cables; however, the shielded cables are rather
> > small and the insulation is not very heat resistant so this is
> > presenting some challenges for me.
> >
> > I managed to solder a couple of these with a larger-tipped, and
> > quite hot, iron; however, that isn't working as well as I'd like
> > due to the excessive heat.  My thinking (again) was to hit this
> > with an iron with sufficient mass so as not to cool the tip too
> > easily and to get on and off the joint as quickly as possible;
> > however, I'm still seeing some melting of the small diameter
> > insulation that I'm not happy about.
> >
> > I'm considering staying with the large tip and reducing the heat
> > (with my variable transformer).  If I do this, I think the
> > likelihood of melting the insulation should be reduced but with a
> > cooler iron, it would mean having to stay on the post longer so
> > that may not work either.
> >
> > Any suggestions on 1) a different method or 2) a better soldering
> > iron?  I realize this is probably an age-old question and it's
> > more technique than anything but this particular situation is
> > frustrating me just a bit so thought I'd reach out for some
> > advice.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Barry - N4BUQ
> 
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