[R-390] Desoldering part 2

[David C. Hallam]

I have  found the Hakko 808 to be very useful for point to point wiring 
on our boat anchor gear.  The tube holding the tip is long and fairly 
small diameter.  I can get into places where I never could before with 
my Weller desoldering station and I don't have to listen to the air 
compressor run.  I just did some upgrading work on a 75S-3 and  replaced 
the film capacitors and resistors in Hallicrafters SX-100 filter 
network.  I never would have gotten to some of them with the Weller.  I 
would have had to remove the whole SX-100 front panel.  A job I really 
didn't want to do.

David
KW4DH



On 11/7/2013 1:24 PM, Norman Ryan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Good routine overall, but I'd add this: Where possible, after clipping leads off the post, undo its mounting screw and finish desoldering the post's terminal outside the chassis.
>
> These little guys are very susceptible to breaking under heat and physical stress, so one should take every precaution to avoid damage to the posts.
>
> For desoldering I use a Weller DS-600 that I found on eBay that was missing its bottom cover.  Due to that and bidders' apparent lack of interest I got it really cheap.
>
> Cooper Industries (Weller's parent company) graciously sent a replacement cover gratis.  Ya gotta love that kind of technical support!
>
> Boatanchor restoration is strictly a hobby and retirement pastime for me, thus the high cost of state of the art desoldering gear is beyond my reach financially.  However, the current thread on desoldering (plus the raves about Hakko) has me rethinking this.
>
> 73 de Norman, KG4SWM
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, November 7, 2013 12:51 PM, wli <wli98122 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>   
> Standard procedure is to heat and unwrap using needle-noses and dental picks. This puts a lot of stress and torque on the post, and can fracture them, as we have seen.  What I do, is first clip off the wrapped lead of the offending component flush with the post using a real sharp flush wire cutters, whose nose has been filed narrow. Then with a hot 100W narrow tip iron, touching the post momentarily causes that component to literally fall off. It takes only seconds to just heat those portions of the post holding the old lead, and lessens the damage caused by conducted heat to neighboring components like resistors or coils.
>>
>> Principle is to use a hot enough iron to loosen the solder for removal, and not heat up the entire assembly.
>>
>> Reassembly is another matter, since now the entire post and other leads require cleaning and re-tinning, and you should use hemostats or other narrow heat sinks to prevent collateral thermal damage.
>>
>> At least, that is my routine........    W. Li
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