[R-390] panel finishing

[rbethman]

Basically I started out as you do/did.

I stripped the panel bare.  It was in sad shape to start with.  It is a 
St.J's Survivor, otherwise called a Blue Striper.

All stripping and painting was done outside.  The reasons are multiple.  
I have folks with Asthma in the house.

I used Lacquer Thinner to strip clean.  Brushed out all engraved areas 
with a fine brass brush.

I painted it with Acrylic Enamel.   I baked it for around 3 hours while 
those with issues were out to work.

I gave acrylic paint a try - two - or - three.  NEVER again!  That was 
my results.

The oil stick worked like a charm.  NOTE: This is NOT a lacquer stick!  
It is a Easel Painter's Oil Stick used for painting with them.

I have found that it takes two passes and wiping with soft shop rags 
that have been washed quite a few times.  I use denatured alcohol on the 
rags.

It looks dull around the lettering at first.  Left overnight, and warmed 
in the oven, this rubs out to the original shine around the engraving.

I suspect that there are just about as many ways of doing this as there 
are folks that have done it.

When I am completely done, I'm going to give it a coating of clear 
satin, and bake once more.

YMMV.


On 3/21/2013 5:39 PM, Glenn Scott wrote:
> For my 6 cents, worth, "inflation,"  I have never liked those lacquer/paint/oil sticks. I have tried a number of different kinds and did not like the results.
> I have done many panels, over 65, and here is the short version of my process. The first thing is the panel needs to be painted with a good quality paint; I use Sherwin Williams enamel.
>
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> Then ((VERY IMPORTANT)) the paint must be completely cured before doing the lettering. Either baked at 140F for 4 hours let it cool and baked for another 4 hours at 130F or sun cured for a few weeks. If it's left inside to cure I would not proceed for at least a month. Shortcuts with my process will yield a mess that will require re-stripping the panel; been there and done that multiple times.
>
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> I use acrylic white paint and dob it on heavy with a brush like the disposable Harbor Freight cheapies!  Then use a small plastic Bondo blade, from the auto stores covered with a water dampened shop towel. Have plenty ready to get rid of most of the excess white paint. This is the messy part, so, plan on having some clean up water, lots of shop towels and a trash can/basket handy. I also use disposable gloves as well.
>
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>   The panel will have white smear everywhere but don't fret, it's going to get worse.. After I make a pass all around the panel, I do it once more, yes a second pass, with the same process. Now the panels really looks bad,,,,really really BAD!.
>
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> Wait about 10 minutes and in a well ventilated location, outside is good, and with chemical resistant gloves on, wet a folded shop towel with Acetone and start wiping. I fold the towel in half 4 times and wipe with the towel flat over the lettering wells with as little pressure as possible.You will need to keep folding the towel different ways to have a clean surface. As you wipe the smear away, you will see the clean bright lettering jump out at you.
>
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> I have never seen an original panel look this good. I often see some lettering that never received paint or originally smeared lettering. Often the original paint looks like it was very thin and never lives up to what you can achieve with this process.
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>   I have played with all kinds of solvents but Acetone works best by far. NOTE..You do NOT want to breath acetone fumes, thus I prefer going out side for this.
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> If the panel paint is not completely cured the acetone will take some of the top coat off too and make a big mess. If you have any doubts about using Acetone try this. Before you strip the panel, go outside and pour a cup of acetone on the panel, let it start evaporate and try to remove the paint. You will see just  grime/dirt and almost no paint at all.  I learned this when I was experimenting with stripping panels and wondered if Acetone would work, IT DID NOT!!..
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> If anyone cares, I have a 4 or 5 page document that I wrote up for complete panel restoration including, stripping, paint types, panel repairs, equipment I use, lettering and panel finishing. I wasted a lot of money and time developing a process I like that gives repeatable results. I can email or post it here it if there is interest. However, it will be a few weeks, since I am recovering from a back injury and don't want to go to that system at a different location now.
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>
> 73,
> Glenn WA4AOS
> DSM Labs  (dot com)
>