[R-390] Cam pins

[bavarianradio at comcast.net]

Just a progress report...After 3 hours and releasing only 1 lousy taper pin from the cams, I studied the beast again and realized that with much less trepidation, I may be able to unbolt the front and rear plates from the chassis and clean the mechanical elements without the electrical chassis. I was able to do this and satisfy my need to "clean" the bearings. I was able to get most of it in the ultrasonic cleaner and work it with steel wool pads and brushes. In doing this, I was able to move the bearings toward the center and clean/polish the actual bearing surfaces on the shafts.As a bonus, the brass parts are also shiny and clean as well. I have been photographing this operation and will have a link to the photos when I get finished (about July, I'm guessing hihi) Thanks for all of your support and ideas, 73's Ross W1EKG
----- bavarianradio at comcast.net wrote:

THanks Norm and Drew, I appreciate all of the tips!! My ultrasonic is
just a smidgen too small to submerge the whole thing, I wouldn't do it
anyway, you just can't be sure of the condition of the bearings unless
you take it apart. Granted, unlike a clock, this assembly is not in
constant motion, but is moved occasionally and with no real torque
applied. I'm sure the simple green is much less intrusive than the
ammoniated stuff I use on clocks as well. I am intending to only do this
one RF deck and possibly the spare I have, so I don't want to invest in
a new ultrasonic cleaner. (although it would be a tax deduction for the
business!)I'm off to make a jig to tap out the taper pins... wish me
luck!! 73's Ross W1EKG
----- "Drew P." <drewrailleur807 at yahoo.com> wrote:
Note that for reinstallation of the taper pins, they must must be driven
until they seat, so that there will be no relative motion between cam
and shaft.  They will otherwise elongate the holes in the soft brass of
the cam, and no amount of driving the pin in will correct this.
I had a cam/shaft assembly with such a malady.  I drove out the pin and
removed cam and shaft.  I reassembled the "bad" cam to the shaft with
the pin (to the extent possible) and Loctite 271. I laid the assembly on
a machinist's surface plate such that the cams' "valleys" were facing
down, and twisted the bad cam to alignment with the good.  After the
Loctite had cured, I then drove out the pin from the "good" cam and
reassembled cam/shaft assembly into the RF deck with the pin.
Drew
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