[R-390] Advice on Replacjng Components
kirklandb at sympatico.ca
kirklandb at sympatico.ca
Tue Jan 11 13:14:39 EST 2011
With a Hako desoldering pistol, I've had good success in desoldering the actual lead.
It takes patience, practice and usually needle nose pliers, and dental picks. I've also
had good success grasping the end of a wire on a desoldered connection "gently" but
firmly with small side cutters and unwrapping it from a terminal.
Before going to all this trouble, one should check tube socket resistances (when available)
and tube socket voltages (after checking key capacitors).
I like to pull the rectifier tube and by-pass the power supply caps and feed in my own DC plate voltage (with current limiting).
> From: jsternmd at att.net
> To: R-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 13:00:49 -0500
> Subject: [R-390] Advice on Replacjng Components
>
> When you have a suspected leaky mica or ceramic cap or an out of spec
> resistor - do you always remove it or do you clip one end and test it? To
> remove all suspected components seems like a major time consuming task. I
> have heard many clip one end to test especially in tight places. My question
> focuses on the techniques used to resolder If the component turns out OK.
> Do you juxtaposition the cut ends and just put a glob of solder? Most
> passive components don't have sufficient extra leads so I am very interested
> in learning from the wisdom of the group.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
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