[R-390] More chemicals from the dark side

[Shoppa, Tim]

Didn't we discuss here in the past year, something about keeping Simple Green away from aluminum chassis or at least making sure it was very thoroughly washed off afterwards to prevent long-term corrosion from residues? When you gotta clean off the cleaner that you used to clean off the cleaner it starts sounding like "the old lady who swallowed the fly".

Most of the geartrain parts are steel but I wonder if some parts might be aluminum?

-----Original Message-----
From: Cecil Acuff [mailto:chacuff at cableone.net] 
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 11:56 AM
To: Shoppa, Tim; Ron Hunsicker; R-390 List Serve
Subject: Re: [R-390] More chemicals from the dark side

Another good one not mentioned that I have started using as a degreaser on 
engine parts because it's much cheaper than the typical degreasers sold for 
that purpose is good ole Mineral Spirits.  Followed up with dilute Simple 
Green to remove the oily residue it works great.

Cecil
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shoppa, Tim" <tshoppa at wmata.com>
To: "Ron Hunsicker" <ronhunsi at ptd.net>; "R-390 List Serve" 
<R-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [R-390] More chemicals from the dark side


> My limited experience with automotive chemicals applied to non-automotive 
> mechanisms:
>
> * Kerosene is far and away the best parts wash solvent given some working 
> time (e.g. overnight).
>
> * Brake cleaner is a very fast-acting degreaser/solvent. It dries skin out 
> real fast too. Smells like cleaning fluid? It also can take off many 
> paints and probably not good to get it on synthetic rubber. I have used it 
> near plastics without any obvious problem.
>
> * Carb cleaner seems to have acetone and toluene in it. It doesn't dry 
> skin out real fast like brake cleaner, but I've also seen it damage 
> plastics.
>
> My conclusion with respect to 390/390A geartrains, with my experience 
> rebuilding yellow stripers, is that kerosene soaking is far and away the 
> way to go but does require tearing down/rebuilding.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net] 
> On Behalf Of Ron Hunsicker
> Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 10:39 AM
> To: R-390 List Serve
> Subject: [R-390] More chemicals from the dark side
>
> All,
>
> Since the introduction of the mostly-polymer Glock pistols in the
> mid-1980's many other firearms manufacturers have introduced firearms
> with the grip and lower frame manufactured from polymer chemicals and
> the barrel and its frame from steel and aluminum.  Apparently, some of
> these polymers react badly to some traditional firearm-cleaning
> chemicals.  Shooter's Choice "Polymer Safe Quick-Scrub Action Cleaner"
> is said to be "safe for polymers, plastics and metals" and is also said
> "...not to harm delicate optics, sights, paint, or camouflage
> finishes."  As with most gun cleaners, it is "extremely flammable."
>
> Remember, there are many types of plastics and paints, many that are not
> used to manufacture or coat firearms.  Try it in an out-of-the-way place
> before general application.
>
> Also, firearm cleaning chemicals are used to remove products of
> combustion, lead, and brass.  Many do this by reacting chemically with
> the lead or brass.  Be careful what you dunk stuff into.
>
> It is my understanding that Hoppe's #9 is a primarily cleaner and not a
> lubricant or preservative.  Once you are done cleaning with #9,
> Shooter's Choice Quick-Scrub, or Gun-Scrubber,  wipe the gun or radio
> part with a soft rag, and then apply a suitable lubricant or preservative.
>
>
>
> Ron
>
>
> -- 
>
> Ron Hunsicker
>
> 1238 Cleveland Avenue
>
> Wyomissing, PA   19610-2102
>
> 610-478-0371
>
> ronhunsiat ptd dot net
>
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