[R-390] Filter caps
Cecil Acuff
chacuff at cableone.net
Fri May 22 09:08:51 EDT 2009
The octal socket idea is not bad and even under the chassis but always
remember if you do the under the chassis replacement, do not plug in the
originals if you have used the socket bases for your connection point for
the under the chassis caps. You will make it look original but will also
throw the leakage of the old caps in the circuit with the replacements.
On removing the old caps it takes more heat than hot water. I had to resort
to the propane torch to get enough heat. I did find that the cans can be
cleaned out with lacquer thinner once the majority of the black goo is
removed.
The last ones I rebuilt I didn't reattach the cans. I just floated them
over the rebuilt bases with the brackets holding them in place. Makes
re-entry a snap.
Cecil Acuff
K5DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <jbrannig at optonline.net>
To: "Tom Frobase" <tfrobase at gmail.com>; "Larry Snyder"
<larrys at teamlarry.com>
Cc: <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [R-390] Filter caps
> Heat will do it.
> I "restuffed" the filter capacitors because it was there and I had time on
> my hands, but truly guys it is not worth the effort!!!
> Solder the replacements to an Octal socket or under the chassis.
>
> Jim
>
>
>> Put the top of the can in a vise or better yet a pipe vice. Hold it
>> lightly taking care not to smash the can. Take a propane touch and
>> slowly heat the can. Hold the base with a pair of channel locks it will
>> slip right out ... tom, N3LLL
>>
>> Larry Snyder wrote:
>>> Hi all --
>>> I'm going through Walter's rebuild procedure for my 1956 filter caps.
>>> I have a nice cut just above the crimp ring, but they don't want to
>>> come out of the cans. Would a hot water bath on the stove be a
>>> viable assist?
>>> thanx!
>>> -ls-
>>> WA8RRK
>>>
>
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