[R-390] Mechanical Filter Repair

[Cecil Acuff]

I have used fingernail polish to tack stuff down and also to lock alignment 
settings.  Used to have access to some stuff called Glyptol.  (spelling?) 
Probably is still out there but not as easily available as it once was 
around here anyway...

Cecil...
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Camp" <ham at cq.nu>
To: <ToddRoberts2001 at aol.com>
Cc: "R-390 List" <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: [R-390] Mechanical Filter Repair


> Hi
>
> The biggest problem with soldering #42 wire is the solder joint it's 
> self. The wire "necks down" as it goes into the solder (strange but 
> true). The effect is not important on large gauge wire. On small  stuff it 
> makes it weak right at the joint.
>
> The answer is pretty simple. Just put a dot of glue, paint, bubble  gum, 
> or what ever you have on top of the joint.
>
> Bob
>
> On Jun 14, 2007, at 1:35 AM, ToddRoberts2001 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 6/13/2007 7:59:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>> mdmerz at verizon.net writes:
>> I believe "formvar" will be hard to
>> remove for soldering and abrasion is the most easily done method  for the
>> formvar wire I've used.   There's probably a solvent that will work  but 
>> I
>> never found one that acted very quickly.
>>
>>
>> I have had very good luck using Strip-EZE paint remover. I put some  into 
>> a
>> small bottle cap to a depth of about 1/4 inch and dip the end of  the 
>> wire into
>> it for 5-10 minutes, then wipe the end of the wire with a kleenex.  The 
>> enamel
>> coating comes right off and the copper is bright and shiny ready  for 
>> soldering.
>> I use the same method to remove the enamel from small-gauge Litz  wire 
>> also.
>> It is the best method I have found for safely removing the enamel 
>> without
>> hurting the fine wire.
>>
>> 73 Todd WD4NGG
>>
>>
>>
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