[R-390] Black Anodizing?
Barry
n4buq at aol.com
Mon Oct 10 10:33:09 EDT 2005
I figure if I try this, I'll skip the nitric acid. I plan to clean the
surfaces with wet-or-dry paper just before processing to expose fresh metal.
BTW, anyone know how to properly dispose of the sulfuric acid? My car
batteries are "sealed" so I can't use it in them and I don't relish the
thought of keeping it around the shop.
Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig C. Heaton" <wd8kdg at worldnet.att.net>
To: "Bruce MacLellan" <brumac at juno.com>; <n4buq at aol.com>
Cc: <R-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:31 AM
Subject: RE: [R-390] Black Anodizing?
> Good Morning All,
>
> I'd like to add $0.02 to this tread. Nitric acid must be handled with
> extreme caution! This acid loves protein, toss a house fly into nitric
acid
> and the fly will disappear quicker than you can blink your eyes. Anyone
who
> has spent time in a chem lab might of tried this experiment. In other
words,
> don't get none on you! A rubber apron and eye protection are a must.
Should
> nitric acid splash on your skin, I doubt it can be washed off quick
enough.
>
> nuf said.....
>
> Regards,
> wd8kdg
> Craig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:r-390-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Bruce MacLellan
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:02 AM
> To: n4buq at aol.com
> Cc: R-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [R-390] Black Anodizing?
>
>
> Hi All,
> I copied this from the internet a few years ago as something that
> might be usefull. Well, that hasn't happened with me yet but someone on
> this list might want to try it. Looks simple enough. Good luck.
>
> Oh yes, the usual disclaimer that I have no intrest etc.
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
> Anodizing at Home
> by Jim Bowes
>
>
> Based on the number of companies selling, and people looking for,
> anodizing
> services for their gun's aluminum bodies and parts, I wanted to provide
> this
> info to the paintballing community. I first came across the process in
> Super
> Chevy magazine, in an article about anodizing your own parts and
> brackets, for a
> custom touch on your hot rod. (* Original article by Bruce Hampson.)
> Often
> anodizing is considered and/or presented as a difficult and expensive
> procedure.
> As it turns out, it really isn't that hard or that pricey.
> Supplies Needed:
> The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on
> the list
> is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. This item is
> what
> might make this too expensive for some paintballers. I (and most other
> hot
> rodders) already have one, for my car. If you don-t, then you will need
> to pick
> one up. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions,
> etc.
> While it may seem like a lot, it does have other uses. (You could charge
> a
> battery, for example.) =) The next item, though not that expensive, will
> take
> some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This
> should be
> available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. To make the
> negative
> ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The
> wire can
> be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have
> the
> foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up
> some more
> at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project.
> No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors;
> just
> plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit
> offers
> something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of
> choices for
> what color you want your parts to be. An optional item is nitric acid:
> about
> $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there
> are
> some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical
> supply
> stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the
> good side
> of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only
> need a
> few ounces.
> Safety Precautions:
> There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from
> blowing up
> the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your
> anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make
> it
> break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of
> spill. You
> also don't want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket
> makes a
> good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to
> color
> will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and
> without
> touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid
> that you
> don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a
> bleach
> bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more
> parts
> later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle.
> Acid
> and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breath. Poisonous.) Safety
> also
> applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that
> you
> label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than
> sulfuric, and
> more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you
> won't have
> that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem
>
> store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid
> and
> water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so
> slowly, being
> sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a
> lot of
> energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity
> through a
> weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery)
> which
> is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited,
> so do
> be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is
> some
> way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition
> near
> the project area. Other precautions you should take include safety
> glasses,
> rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area.
> (Editor's Note: While Mr. Bowes recommends not using a glass container,
> we
> highly recommend use of glass within a plastic container to help keep the
> acid
> from eating through plastic, but keeping the glass less breakable in the
> event
> the container falls over.)
> Preparations:
> One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even
> color over
> the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want
> it free
> of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where
> the
> nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of
> nitric
> acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface
> in
> preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when
> exposed to
> air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you
> are
> ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with
> distilled
> water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are
> carburetor
> or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work
> also,
> or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is
> the
> best. (You decide, it's your money.) =) Make your negative ground with
> the
> aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and
> cover
> the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round
> shape
> to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up out of the
> bucket.
> You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes
> out of
> the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your
> immersion
> solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to
> come up
> with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.)
> Place
> the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the
> positive
> lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution.
> (Remember
> that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not
> touch.)
> This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to
> fizz,
> leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part
> should
> no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check
> conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect
> everything, and
> rinse the part in cold water. DonÀ Àt use hot water! YouÀ Àll find out
> why in
> the next section.
> A couple of notes:
> I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the
> copper lead
> from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says
> nothing
> about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take
> some
> trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad
> idea to
> get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your
> paintgunÀ Às parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the
> colors you
> like best. If you test out some colors, youÀ Àll also learn just how long
> or
> short you need to work with the color solution.
> Color:
> So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been
> rinsed
> and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the
> color,
> due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution
> of dye
> and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at
> low
> heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you
> need
> something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the
> bottom
> this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make
> sure
> that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can
> (and will
> be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the
> solution
> gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any
> color.
> (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the
> part is
> slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of
> the
> metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it,
> thus the
> slightly darker color in the previous step.
> End Notes:
> It is important to realize that the process described above will yield
> only one
> color on your part. At this time, I haven't found out how to do any of
> the
> splash type of anodizing. (That's okay though, it looks really ugly
> anyways.) =)
> Should anyone happen to figure it out, I suggest you submit it to Warpig
> so they
> can put it up for others who like it.
> Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work
> on
> other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing only works well on rock metal like
> bar or
> sheet stock, as opposed to castings. If it was forged or machined, it
> should
> have the density to take color through this process. I figure this
> shouldn't be
> too big a problem with the guns, but just thought I should let you know
> about
> it.
> Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it
> puts
> out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40
> amperes
> per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The
> larger
> parts in a gun however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other
> note
> about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution.
> Above it
> said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may
> not
> only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an
> ohmmeter,
> but again, I have one already.
> So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you
> don't
> have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as
>
> sending your gun out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much
> less. Or
> do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all
> of you
> to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper.
> And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and
>
> something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal
> with
> it, you can't blame it on anyone else.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Copyright © 1992-2003 Corinthian Media Services. WARPIG's webmasters can
> be
> reached through our feedback form.
> All articles and images are copyrighted and may not be redistributed
> without the
> written permission of their original creators and Corinthian Media
> Services. The
> WARPIG paintball page is a collection of information, and pointers to
> sources
> from around the internet and other locations. As such, Corinthian Media
> Services
> makes no claims to the trustworthiness, or reliability of said
> information. The
> information contained in, and referenced by WARPIG, should not be used as
> a
> substitute for safety information from trained professionals in the
> paintball
> industry.
>
>
> On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 07:55:48 -0500 "Barry" <n4buq at aol.com> writes:
> > Greg,
> >
> > Thanks. I know there is at least one place here that does
> > anodizing, but
> > they have a very hefty minimum charge (something like $50 or more).
> > This is
> > mainly for cosmetic purposes and if I can't find a very reasonable
> > solution,
> > I'll probably just leave them bare. I can get them alodined and I
> > may see
> > what they'll charge for this very small lot if I can't find
> > inexpensive
> > anodizing. I had the other parts of a couple of frames alodined
> > there and
> > they look great. I'd rather have them protected, but I already have
> > quite a
> > bit "invested" in these things so if it comes to it, they'll be left
> > bare.
> >
> > Thanks all,
> >
> > Barry - N4BUQ
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gregory W. Moore" <gwmoore at moorefelines.com>
> > To: "Kenneth Arthur Crips" <CRIPS01 at MSN.COM>
> > Cc: "R-390-List" <R-390 at mailman.qth.net>; "Barry" <N4BUQ at aol.com>
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 12:50 AM
> > Subject: Re: [R-390] Black Anodizing?
> >
> >
> > > GM Ken, Barry, es the list...
> > >
> > > Boy, now, you hit the 'ol nail on the head --hi-- being a
> > boatanchor
> > > fanatic, a Greenkeyer, AND a gunsmith, I couldn't help but try to
> > answer
> > > the question.....
> > >
> > > Now Barry, I did a search for anodizing in your area (Huntsville)
> > and
> > > came up with the following URL:
> > > http://www.thomasnet.com/alabama/anodizing-1790179-1.html
> > >
> > > There seem to be a couple of places in the area, I don't, of
> > course know
> > > if they do jobbing work or one off stuff..but, it wouldn't hurt to
> > call..
> > > 73 de Greg "GW" Moore WA3IVX/NNN0BVN
> > >
> > > Kenneth Arthur Crips wrote:
> > >
> > > > Here is a listing of places that do this kind of work.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.aluminumanodizing.com/
> > > >
> > > > You might check out local Gunsmiths to see who they use for
> > this.
> > > > They deal with this short of thing all the time.
> > > >
> > > > Ken
> > > >
> > > > Kenneth A. Crips, W7ITC, Cheyenne,
> > > > Wyoming. with The Chew Crew; Beezie,
> > > > Chic', and Cowboy, Irish Terriers who
> > > > are Red House ninjas with 10th degree
> > > > Black belts in Bed Fue, Mooch Fue,
> > > > Chew Fue, and Con Artist Fue
> > > >
> > > > _____________________________________________________________
> > > > R-390 mailing list
> > > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
> > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/faq.htm
> > > > Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
> > > > Unsubscribe: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/options/r-390
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > Happily turning electricity into RF energy for almost 40 years,
> > > on land, sea and air, professional and amateur,
> > > around the clock and around the world. KEEP CW ALIVE!
> > > Become an Elmer today!!! http://www.fists.org/
> > > FISTS #9404
> > >
> > > "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men
> > do
> > nothing."
> > > --Edmund
> > Burke
> > > Greg Moore NNN0BVN PA
> > > U.S. Navy-Marine Corps Military Affiliate Radio System (MARS)
> > > Official Pennsylvania Area Website:
> > > http://pages.prodigy.net/nnn0fbk/mars.htm
> > > Official Northeast Area Website:
> > > http://www.navymars.org/northeast/index.htm
> > > Navy-Marine Corps MARS: Proudly Serving Those Who Serve."
> > > E-Mail (MARS) nnn0bvn at navymars.org
> > > E-Mail (ARRL) wa3ivx at arrl.net
> > >
> >
> *************************************************************************
> ***
> > **************************
> > >
> > > PRESERVATIONS OFFICER: USS AMERICA (CV/CVA-66) MUSEUM FOUNDATION
> > > Please visit us on the web at
> > http://www.ussamerica-museumfoundation.org
> > >
> > > SIGN OUR GUESTBOOK! KEEP HER MEMORY ALIVE!
> > >
> > > THIS YEAR, THE FINEST CARRIER THAT EVER SAILED THE 7 SEAS WILL
> > > BE GONE FOREVER, HER CALLSIGN NMIB (LATER NUSA) NEVER TO BE
> > > HEARD AGAIN, NOR BE SEEN FLYING PROUDLY FLYING FROM THE HALLIARD
> > > WHILE ENTERING OR LEAVING PORT.
> > >
> > > SHE MAY BE SUNK, IGNOMINIOUSLY, BY THE NAVY, SANS COLORS, SANS
> > HONORS
> > > BUT WE, HER LOYAL CREW, AND SHIPMATES, WILL ALWAYS REMEMBER HER
> > FOR
> > > CARRYING US INTO HARMS WAY, AND BACK AGAIN WITH OLD GLORY FLYING
> > AT THE
> > > GAFF, AND WITH HONOR APLENTY. AT LEAST WE TRIED TO SAVE YOU FOR
> > A
> > > MUSEUM, AS BEFITS A SHIP CARRYING THE NAME OF OUR GREAT REPUBLIC.
> > >
> > > BUT SOMETIMES YOU JUST CAN'T WORK MIRACLES WITH MORONS.
> > > THEY WOULD RATHER POLLUTE AND FOUL THE SAME OCEANS THE USS
> > AMERICA
> > > OMCE SAILED HONORABLY, WITH NAVAL SPIT AND POLISH
> > > AND TOTAL PRIDE FROM EVERY OFFICER AND ENLISTED MAN
> > >
> > > NERK NERK NERK DE NMIB NMIB NMIB SK SK SK
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > R-390 mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/faq.htm
> > Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
> > Unsubscribe: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/options/r-390
> >
> >
> _____________________________________________________________
> R-390 mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/faq.htm
> Post: mailto:R-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Unsubscribe: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/options/r-390
>
>
>
More information about the R-390
mailing list