[R-390] Variacs and solas: additional thoughts.

Barry Hauser barry at hausernet.com
Sun May 1 14:24:18 EDT 2005


Hi Cecil

I agree -- monitoring current is a good idea.  My favorite variac "ac 
supply" is a Staco I picked up a few years ago.  I was told it was working 
and maybe it was.  I fired it up and it smoked.  That's how I learned about 
fouled winding contacts -- the hard way.

This was rated for 4.5 amps, though it had a standard 5 amp Staco 
autotransformer in it -- cabinet about 12 inches wide with ammeter and 
voltmeter.  Has a shunt for the ammeter.  I managed to match up the correct 
raw autotransformer to get it going again.  Both meters are pretty accurate 
and the switching setup makes it very convenient.

Yup -- the ol' lightbulb trick.  The first I came across that was part of 
the initial testing instructions for a 3-tube Lafayette KT-135 regenerative 
radio kit many years ago.  They also advised using a neon bulb tester to 
manually polarize the ac plug so the front panel wouldn't be hot with full 
AC.  Wonder what the body count was on those -- they were very popular and 
the cabinet was extra. ;-)

Barry



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecil Acuff" <chacuff at cableone.net>
To: <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [R-390] Variacs and solas: additional thoughts.


>I agree with what you have said Barry...Good stuff!
>
> The only thing I will add and only because it has not been mentioned is 
> the biggest benefit I have experienced when using a variac is in 
> conjunction with some method of monitoring the current being drawn by the 
> unit under test.  The best variac I used years ago had a front panel 
> voltmeter and amp meter.  You would know right away if there was a problem 
> with the load by watching the amp meter while bringing up the power. 
> Another more inexpensive way of achieving this is to put a 60 watt 120V 
> light bulb on a ceramic socket in series with the load.  The lamp will 
> light brightly on power up but should drop to just barely visible if all 
> is well.  If it stays bright chances are something is wrong and the nice 
> thing...the bulb limited the current to limit the damage!
>
> That's a neat old trick that many of the newer techs probably hadn't heard 
> of .....
>
> Cecil...
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Barry Hauser" <barry at hausernet.com>
> To: "W. Li" <wli98122 at yahoo.com>; <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>; "Roy Morgan" 
> <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
> Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 12:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [R-390] Variacs and solas: additional thoughts.
>
>
>> Hi Roy -- 
>>
>> Many thanks for all the detail.  Despite Ohms Law and various other well 
>> established principles, there seems to be remaining variance in opinions 
>> about the appropriate, safe and effective use of variacs.
>>
>> Very often, some list members tire easily of certain threads, even when 
>> substantive.  Oddly, it seems the complainants are those who rarely, if 
>> ever, contribute anything.  Even among the "regular crew" it has become 
>> customary to trot out the dead horse lamentations.
>>
>> One of the reasons Seabiscut & friends get dug up and dragged to the 
>> paddock again and again, is that, despite the length of the thread, there 
>> is something short of a final resolution of a question sometime before it 
>> peters out.  Archives are difficult to search -- one of the reasons W. Li 
>> created and periodically updates his "Pearls of Wisdom".  Further, it's 
>> difficult to come up with totally new material, and, if that were a 
>> requirement (avoidus oderiferous moribund equinus), we might as well shut 
>> down this list because the only new news would be the latest provocation 
>> on the e-place.
>>
>> Another phenomenon:  Even the most experienced vary in opinions on a 
>> number of things.  Often, this is due to differences in input or 
>> assumptions. Given a complete and common baseline, there would be a good 
>> deal more agreement, and less ambiguity facing the modern pilgrim.
>>
>> Anyway, persuant to the foregoing ....
>>
>> Here's some more <insert groan here> on variacs, AKA autotransformers ... 
>> as followup to the questions Roy posed:
>>
>> Roy wrote:
>>> Here are some questions to investigate:
>>>
>>> Variacs:
>>> 1) What particular makes and models of "variacs" are set up for 
>>> overvoltage as made?
>>
>> I have quite a few, both "plug 'n play" in enclosures, plus raw ones. 
>> Most all of them I've found are set up with the "extra taps" -- at least 
>> one, but usually two -- even if they aren't brought out to a switch 
>> arrangement.  At minimum the taps, at about 10 and 2 o'clock, usually at 
>> least are brought out to the terminal board on the variac.  I've got 
>> Staco's, GenRad Variacs, Powerstats, etc.  All pretty similar.  If the 
>> enclosed type has a "140" volt switch position, it's easy to defeat it 
>> for safety purposes if you're sure you'll never want to step up.
>>
>>> 2) Do small variacs behave differently than bigger ones?  (I doubt it.)
>>
>> Don't know for sure but also doubt it.
>>
>>> 3) Are fuses or circuit breakers normally in the input as made?
>>
>> Most I've noticed are on one side of the input.  I have some variac's 
>> that are part of multipurpose power supplies and may have additional 
>> fusing.
>>
>> Possibly relevant:  Autotransformers are not isolated.  They are similar 
>> to a wirewound pot, except the core is an iron doughnut which provides 
>> the electrical characteristics of the creature.  (Someone else can 
>> explain the theory.)  It is not the same as a true transformer with 
>> isolated primary and secondary windings.  Not sure, but I think the AC 
>> and/or DC resistance is pretty low.  So, there might not be much 
>> additional protection from a fuse added to the load side.  I haven't 
>> thought it through, but there might be some hazard to a load side fuse 
>> blowing while a supply side one remained intact under certain 
>> circumstances.
>>
>>> 4) What errors are found in the dial readings due to line voltages being 
>>> higher than the unit was made for?
>>
>> I, for one, never pay much attention to the dial readings as they amost 
>> all read low.  My AC runs about 126 volts most of the time, except during 
>> Summer, exceeding the nominal 115-120 assumed by those dials.  (Older 
>> ones may have assumed 110 VAC).  In addition, the rotor may not have been 
>> calibrated right on if it's mounted with a set screw that allows for 
>> rotating it relative to the shaft.  The carbon wiper can wear in such a 
>> way to cause changes.  Always use an accurate AC voltmeter with them.
>>
>>> 5) Are the voltmeters found on variacs at all accurate?
>>
>> Some are, but should be checked against a known good voltmeter.  If it 
>> tracks accurately around the critical ranges, then you can rely on the 
>> internal voltmeter.  Assume nothing.
>>
>> I've posted on this before, but some more on safety:  If you acquire a 
>> used variac, or even an NOS one, open it up and examine it carefully.  If 
>> there is a buildup of carbon/graphite fallout from the wiper, clean it up 
>> thoroughly.  (NOS variacs may have been played with/twiddled).  The 
>> buildup may be confined to a small portion of the "race" due to tweaking 
>> over a limited range.  It doesn't take many bridged windings to start a 
>> meltdown. Use a nylon detailing brush or old toothbrush - -no solvent and 
>> no abrasives.  The contacts are made up of the edges of the windings 
>> which have been ground down, flattened and often thinly plated.  If the 
>> carbon fallout fills too many gaps it can cause dramatic failure -- with 
>> plenty of smoke to go with it.  The wiper normally straddles 2 or 3 
>> windings - to avoid intermittents when you adjust it.  That's OK. 
>> However, if the wiper seems to be crumbling or leaving a heavy track 
>> right after you cleaned it up, time for a new wiper.
>>
>> Check for prior damage -- prior overheating or burnout.  There will 
>> ususally be a blackened stripe around the doughnut.  This may be 
>> partially hidden by the terminal board.  Not to be confused with the 
>> black potting that most have partway up the doughnut, near the wiper 
>> edge.
>>
>> As I mentioned above, despite all the dead horse thrashings, there is 
>> remaining disagreement on the appropriate use of variacs.  I suspect if 
>> all the operating assumptions were pulled together in one place, there 
>> wouldn't be much disagreement at all.  Here are some factoids from 
>> personal experience, but mainly gleaned from this list over the years:
>>
>> 1.  "Bringing it up slowly on a variac" may often be false security.  If 
>> a tube rectifier is involved, B+ won't start up until about 90 volts or 
>> whatever and suddenly.  You can temporarily sub out tube rectifiers with 
>> silicon rectifiers to do this.  If so, ideally B+ should be monitored.
>>
>> 2. Same -- "bringing up slowly" means different things -- over what time 
>> frame.  Some will say very slowly, as in hours or even days.  This may be 
>> questionable.  Even if you take care of the rectifier situation, the 
>> operation of the filaments possibly heating up things at partial voltage 
>> while the B+ is too low may be a bad thing -- much the same as using the 
>> standby switch on the R-390's.  I don't recall exactly, but there were 
>> posts on this -- possible damage to some tubes - -I don't recall.
>>
>> 3. Not particularly effective as a way to reform electrolytics in place, 
>> even if the rectifier aspect is dealt with.  Not a good way to detect bad 
>> electrolytics.  Whether to reform or replace is arguable, however, 
>> reforming is best done with a separate power supply or capacitor tester. 
>> Disconnect the electrolytics and go about the test procedure with the cap 
>> checker --one that tests caps at operating voltages.  However, start the 
>> leakage test at a lower voltage -- e.g. 50, switch to monitor leakage and 
>> make sure it's going down, then step up, allow some time, re-check 
>> leakage which should drop down to negligible/acceptable level if you're 
>> going to try to use them.  Some will say this has little merit and it's 
>> best to replace them outright, and that makes sense, but, let's face it, 
>> the realities are that many of us can't resist the impetus to go forward 
>> and fire 'em up.  Even if the caps are "acceptable", it's best to 
>> reform/precharge them to avoid excessive stress on transformers after a 
>> "long sleep".  Further, if the leakage is bad enough, you will know not 
>> to proceed.
>>
>> But using a variac to somehow avoid transformer failure and cap 
>> explosions, etc. is false security.  In that sense, I agree with Les. If 
>> that's what you're going to do, don't get one.
>>
>> 4.  You can use a variac to bring up a transformerless AC/DC unit (like a 
>> 5-tube table radio or tube Transoceanic) if they have selenium 
>> rectifiers, "as is", I would think -- but be aware that variacs provide 
>> no isolation whatsoever.  Use an isolation transformer in combination --  
>> in front of the variac.  There may be some value in a slow start to 
>> long-unused/unknown solid state equipment.  With these, the old cap 
>> checkers don't have a voltage setting low enough.
>>
>> 5.  Variacs are useful for checking regulation of B+ and short term for 
>> dropping line voltage down to 110-115.  Long term, permanent installation 
>> would be better handled with a bucking transformer.  (Unless your voltage 
>> varies seasonally.)  You can also check if the overvoltage condition you 
>> have seems critical or not by comparing voltages at various test points 
>> at full line voltage (eg. 127) vs dropped to 115/120 to determine if 
>> there really is a need for a bucking transformer -- I suppose.
>>
>> 6.  If you feel more comfortable with the idea, by all means, add a load 
>> fuse.  I usually plug a good surge suppressor or outlet strip into the 
>> variac, plug the equipment under test into it along with a hookup (line 
>> cord with banana plugs) into a DVM.  Of course, the circuit breakers in 
>> those things are typically set to trip at 15 Amps, so probably not that 
>> much of a help, if any.  Best to add a fuse at a lower rating if you feel 
>> the need. Again, I'm not so sure it makes a difference with variacs which 
>> may be why they typically have fuses or breakers on the input side only.
>>
>> 7.  There is the notion that stepping the voltage up slowly may give one 
>> the opportunity to pull the plug sooner if some crackling, arcing or 
>> smoke occurs partway up the scale.  This sounds like it makes some sense 
>> and might help, depending on the exact circumstances and might limit 
>> "collateral damage".  However, it presumes that you are watching closely 
>> full time and have the chassis situated so that you can hear and see any 
>> developments immediately and you're quick on the trigger finger.  To me, 
>> that would require removal from any cabinet and up-ending the chassis so 
>> you can see, smell, hear as quickly as possible.  And then, there's 
>> always the quintessential question ... "Do you feel lucky?".
>>
>> After reading Roy's info on Sola constant voltage transformers, I have 
>> some questions and concerns about them.  I've got a 20 amp unit supplying 
>> a circuit with computer equipment on it.  It runs hot and noisy even 
>> heavily loaded.  No apparentl problems in 8 years, but I seriously wonder 
>> whether it was worth the bother.  However, I'll pursue that off list with 
>> Roy.
>>
>> Anyhow, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it -- until further notice.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Constant Voltage Transformers:
>>> 1) Do small ones behave in a way similar to large ones?  (I have 
>>> examples from 60 volt-amps up to one Kilowatt.)
>>> 2) What peak voltages come out of the harmonic neutralized type, and 
>>> what from the non-netutralized ones, as a function of loading.
>>> 3) Does harmonic content in the output lead to high voltages in 
>>> rectifier power suppllies?  Are choke input plate supplies affected in 
>>> the same way?
>>> 4) What are the overload characteristics of these things?  Are they the 
>>> same for small and bigger units?
>>> 5) Where above rated output do these things collapse, and do all such 
>>> transformers behave this way?
>>>
>>>
>>> Sooo many projects, sooo little time!
>>>
>>> Roy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> - Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing!
>>> 7130 Panorama Drive, Derwood MD 20855
>>> Home: 301-330-8828 Cell 301-928-7794
>>> Work: Voice: 301-975-3254, Fax: 301-948-6213
>>> roy.morgan at nist.gov --
>>>
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>>
>>
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