[R-390] More geartrain rebuild info
ToddRoberts2001 at aol.com
ToddRoberts2001 at aol.com
Fri Feb 25 12:32:17 EST 2005
I have had pretty good luck using a long Kerosene soak in a large plastic tub
to clean the RF geartrain assembly. Several days seemed long enough plus
occasional breaks to rotate the gears and swish around in all the tight spots
with a stiff paintbrush so that nothing gets missed. After a days soaking I would
pour the used kerosene thru a filter and toss out the sand and dirt that
settled to the bottom of the tub and reclean the tub before soaking another day.
After about 4 days of this the assembly looks pretty clean and I would pull it
out, put it on a large soft cotton towel and place it in front of a
dehumidifier for a day or two and let the warm dry air blow over everything. After about
2 days of this the RF assembly is bone-dry. It is amazing how dull and porous
the metal looks after a thorough cleaning and drying. It is not a good idea
to rotate the gears and shafts when the metal bushings/bearings are bone dry
like this. What I have done in the past is spray everything with WD-40 and the
metal would soak this right up and become shiny again and then individually
lube all the bushings and gears with synthetic oil. With what I know about WD-40
now I don't think I would do this again. What I will try next time is put the
dry assembly in a tub with light weight Mobil One synthetic oil and let it
soak in again for a few days and then let it drip-dry on a big cotton towel.
Probably expensive and messy to do it this way but I think that is the best way to
insure the synthetic oil will get a chance to penetrate in-between all the
split gears and bushings. 73 Todd WD4NGG
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