[R-390] 390() vs 390(A)

Sandy Geiger chg111 at hotmail.com
Wed Dec 29 08:53:29 EST 2004


   Guys-  I  have  an  R-391,  s/n  282,  that  I  got  from  Rick  Mish.
   Electronically,  it is tweaked to the nines,as all Rick's restorations
   are,  but  I've  never  been  brave-or  foolish-enuff  to  fire up the
   Autotune.  Rick  kinda suggested it would be in my-& the radio's- best
   interests  if  I  left  it  alone.  Too  many  tales  of R-391s eating
   themselves have convinced me this is the right thing to do.-Sandy G.
   C.H.(Sandy)Geiger III
   >From: Barry Hauser <barry at hausernet.com>
   >Reply-To: Barry Hauser <barry at hausernet.com>
   >To: paul at pdq.com, Roy Morgan <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
   >CC: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
   >Subject: Re: [R-390] 390() vs 390(A)
   >Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 19:06:47 -0500
   >
   >Hi Roy & gang
   >
   >Well,  if  you  get one, YMMV.  Odds are the autotune doesn't work --
   and it's
   >not a good idea to try it before overhauling the thing, no matter how
   >tempting.  Most  owners  of '391's use them like 390's and have never
   powered
   >up  the  autotune.  So,  they've  been  sitting for ages.  The switch
   contacts in
   >the  control  unit  are  probably oxidized, and the stack of pawls --
   they're
   >like  a sandwich -- are all glued together by the petrified lube that
   is
   >needed  to  be super-slippery for the thing to have snowball's chance
   to work
   >in  the first place.  Also, the thing probably needs to be re-synched
   --
   >after  it's  overhauled.  It is impossible to walk this gizmo through
   manually
   >in  steps, though you can put a bristol wrench in the synch adjuster,
   lock
   >the   knobs  down  and  rotate  it.  However,  it's  not  a  complete
   simulation as
   >the  relay  and  control  unit  aren't  doing  their things. It's all
   hard-wired
   >together -- including the relay -- no socket.
   >
   >So, having one offers no assurance of comprehending how it's supposed
   to
   >work,  let  alone  mastery.  You  have  to  walk  through  the manual
   explanation,
   >and  that's lacking.  Actually, the equivalent manual section for the
   R-105
   >(ARR-15?) does a better job.  The mechanisms are similar.
   >
   >The  best  procedure  is to open up whatever you can, degrease, clean
   contacts,
   >re-lube,  see  if  things  move, set the synch.  Then, make darn sure
   that the
   >channel  selector  is  set  to  the  same  number  as  shows  in  the
   window.  Lock the
   >locking  keys down tight.  Then apply 24 vdc to the 4th pin -- use an
   outlet
   >strip to cut the supply if there isn't a handy switch.  Then change
   >channels  --which  will start the show.  Even if it's working, you'll
   be
   >startled  at  the  noise  and  the  gnashing  of  gears, slamming and
   banging.  It
   >is a wild experience the first time you see a '390's knobs turning by
   >themselves.  Both  turn, then one stops, then the other turns.  If it
   was
   >past  the point, it rewinds.  After what seems like a few minutes (or
   hours),
   >it will stop at some frequency.  If it runs amok and tries to
   >modify/remachine the 10-turn stop (to infinity), cut the DC.
   >
   >The  thing's a puzzle -- what's that saying? -- an enigma, wrapped in
   a
   >paradox -- never could get that right, either.  There was supposed to
   be an
   >R-391A,  but  there  wasn't.  I  suspect it was partly because by the
   time they
   >got  around  to  it,  there  was some field experience with the first
   one.  Also,
   >it needs the beefier geartrain of the original item.
   >
   >It's  a  good idea to take an 83 mg. aspirin about an hour before you
   start --
   >or a couple a' good snorts.  It's scary.  After we spend all the time
   >cleaning,   lubing,  replacing  broken  clamps,  synching,  aligning,
   recapping,
   >meditating over the ballast tube considerations, refinishing panels,
   >re-stuffing  plugins,  etc.  we have a tendency to treat these things
   with some
   >delicacy  and  respect.  The  autotune  mechanism  doesn't  know from
   that.  If it
   >isn't  working  right or not synched up, it may well try to tune your
   '391
   >into  the  '389 range -- or to 2.4 ghz -- or maybe even 5.8 to listen
   into the
   >new  cordless  phones.  Yup, it'll wreck yer deck -- if the vibration
   doesn't
   >kill  half  your tubes.  (Make sure the filament in your ballast tube
   is nice
   >and flexible before powering up.)
   >
   >
   >Poll   --   how   many   of   you  guys  have  R-391's  with  working
   autotuners?  How many
   >with  non-working ones?  How many unknowns?  Actually, I think it was
   Paul
   >who rebuilt his '391, right?
   >
   >Barry
   >
   >----- Original Message -----
   >From: "Roy Morgan" <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
   >To: "Barry Hauser" <barry at hausernet.com>; <paul at pdq.com>
   >Cc: <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
   >Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 6:05 PM
   >Subject: Re: [R-390] 390() vs 390(A)
   >
   >
   > > At 05:46 PM 12/27/2004, Barry Hauser wrote:
   > > >Roy wrote:
   > > >  ... In the R-391, both the KC and MC setting mechanisms
   > > > > are moved by (separate) Motors and associated position setting
   > > > > mechanisms.
   > > >
   > > >Not so .. only one motor in the R-391.  I have two of the beasts.
   > >
   > > Barry,
   > >
   > > Thanks for the clarification.  I had some mis-conceptions.
   > >
   > > All the more reason to own one so I can learn the beast!
   > >
   > > 73,
   > > Roy
   > >
   > >
   > > - Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing!
   > > 7130 Panorama Drive, Derwood MD 20855
   > > Home: 301-330-8828 Cell 301-928-7794
   > > Work: Voice: 301-975-3254,  Fax: 301-948-6213
   > > roy.morgan at nist.gov --
   > >
   > >
   >
   >
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