[R-390] Re: [R390] Epoxy Paint toughness

Cecil Acuff [email protected]
Sat, 31 May 2003 11:33:32 -0500


Greetings,

        Good luck finding Lacquer....except in automotive touch up spray
cans.  Most automotive repair supply stores don't handle it any longer.
(exception is gloss black as I understand it)  It has been pretty much
outlawed but the EPA folks.

It is the most user friendly paint I have ever used.  It is available in
touch up spray cans because the stuff can be sprayed over just about any
cured paint type...Years ago American car paints were enamel.  Most body
shops shot their repair jobs with lacquer because there were no ill effects
with the original paint lifting etc...  It will most definitely raise most
"green" (fresh) paints.

The good part is overspray dries before it lands on surrounding surfaces so
you just dust it off.  Try that with other paints.

Down side is it is not as tough and durable as most would like. But it can
be touched up with just another shot or two and blends well.

You can color sand the surface with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit papers and
water then polish with fine polishing compound and make a finish like glass!

It should be applied in many light coats...time between coats can be just a
matter of minutes...so it's pretty easy to build quite a film thickness.
Most old classic cars with Black Lacquer paint jobs that looked a mile deep
had 30, 40 or more coats...then color sanded to perfection!

I think it would be ideal for grey panel jobs...goes on very thin, dries in
minutes...very forgiving!  I found a couple cans of machine grey lacquer a
year or so back and plan to give it a try!

Cecil...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terry H. Burroughs" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 9:28 AM
Subject: [R-390] Re: [R390] Epoxy Paint toughness


Dave

I recommend you trash the Krylon brand paint, or use it on some of your
outdoor patio furniture, etc...
I recommend using only a professional brand automotive coating such as
Sherwin-Williams, Dittzler, etc...
Also go with a "lacquer" coating of your color choice.  "Beware" - lacquers
and enamels don't mix.  Lacquer should go over the zinc-chromate o.k., if
the zinc has some age on it.  Even enamel based zinc-chromate coatings tend
to dry hard enough that lacquers will not harm them - but I recommend using
a seal coat over the zinc first.  It is best to be sure.   A "very" light
coat of lacquer primer over the zinc should be enough to do the job, if you
don't use a sealer.  Be sure to remove all the old enamel coating - and I
mean all.  Any traces of a fresh enamel coating will wrinkle and cook under
the lacquer coat, as you are applying it.  Usually, the off the shelf type
paints, such as you used, will never dry or harden.  You gets what you pays
for......This is why I recommend going with the professional brand
materials.  Experiment with the lacquer.  I think you will like it.  You
won't have to heat it, and should age to glass like hardness in a week or
so.  Let me know if I can help further.

Terry Burroughs.




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