[R-390] CV-591 Questions
Roy Morgan
[email protected]
Wed, 22 Jan 2003 10:51:15 -0500
At 08:01 AM 1/22/03 -0500, Jim Brannigan wrote:
>There is a 10Mfd. bathtub capacitor in the audio driver B+ circuit. This
>has failed open, is this the usual failure mode of a bathtub capacitor?
Jim,
Usually they don't fail. hehe... leakage is more common than open I think,
but whatever, yours failed open. You may be able to unsolder the case and
fix an open connection.. though at that point a new cap inside is a good
idea. (If you use an elecrolytic, mark the polatity!) puttng a new cap on
the terminals of the old one is a fine solution though.
>The variable oscillator is VERY touchy to align.
>Any ideas?
Is the thing stable on crystal control (assuming you have the crystals
installed)?
Apply TINY amounts of De-Oxit or Pro Gold to the cap rotor wiping
contacts. This thing is operating around 400 kc or so and should not be
touchy in any way.
Check ground lugs and capacitor mounting frame studs for corrosion. Also
pay attention to shields in the same way. Replace all paper caps, if you
have a flaky one in a bypass function, it may be wavering in value enough
to affect the oscillator frequency.
You may have a flaky trimmer cap. Be careful if you are tempted to force a
ceramic trimmer that is stuck. I broke one and discovered that it is a
temperature compensated one (N750 perhaps) and was not easy to
replace. For our use the temp compensation may simply not be
needed. Summing fixed and a variable cap is perfectly fine if you can't
locate the right value.. These circuits should essentially stay tuned up
forever once set.
To save a bit of heat and unnecessary tube aging, removing the reactance
tube as you did is a good idea.
Roy
- Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing!
7130 Panorama Drive, Derwood MD 20855
Home: 301-330-8828 Work: Voice: 301-975-3254, Fax: 301-948-6213
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