[R-390] Resistors, SSB

[blw]

> On replacing leaded caps/resistors in those crowded spaces: Trying to undo
> the connection from a tube socket pin or other terminal often does damage.
> Cutting out old component leaving a stub at the terminal and splicing in new
> component using small copper tubing sleeves was a good suggestion.
> Alternatively, the new component's leads can  be coiled using a piece of the
> old component's lead as a form, and these coils slipped over the
> aforementioned stubs and soldered.  This works especially well if new
> component has smaller diameter leads than old.  Such would be the case when
> using 1/4 watt carbon film or metal film resistors to replace old 1/2 watt
> units (calculate dissipation to determine suitability of replacement).
> 
> 
> Drew

Drew,

The copper tubing sleeve idea seems interesting.

When I was recapping a Fisher receiver a few of the new parts did not have
leads long enough to reach the original terminals. I have a thicker piece of
wire on the bench for wrapping lead wires around. I make about 4 good coils
on the ends of the new part, squeeze the coils tightly together with needle
noses, and slip the coils over the original wires. Then, once the fit looks
good, I crimp the coils over the original wire before soldering.

When I replaced old caps in a Bogen amp I had a few places where new caps
were not long enough. I had some places where I could solder in a terminal
strip to the chassis. I used those to tie in original wires to the strip and
then attach the new parts. I like this approach better than splicing.


Barry