[R-390] OT: Low-voltage tubes

[Scott, Barry (Clyde B)]

This one was extremely fortunate.  The output transformer is supposed to be
mounted to the speaker, but the original mounting has been munged.  Someone
attempted to solder the transformer case to the mounting bracket but it came
loose at some point.  I'm guessing it took a hit during shipping.  The guy
didn't pack it very well (double-boxed but no packing between boxes and very
little between radio and box in some places).  The transformer probably
bounced around quite a bit during the trip.  Amazingly, none of the tubes
were broken.  It just got lucky I suppose.

I need the speaker mounting bracket as the original one was replaced with a
crude sheet metal device.  This seems to be the only area where someone did
a little home-brew work that really needs attention.  Hopefully I can find a
replacement for it on one of the lists.

Thanks guys for all the help and advice!

Barry(III) - N4BUQ

-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Hauser [mailto:barry@hausernet.com]
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 3:35 PM
To: Scott, Barry (Clyde B); R390 (E-mail)
Subject: Re: [R-390] OT: Low-voltage tubes


Like '390's, the tube TO's are very hardy.  Zenith promoted the fact that
they were treated with moisture proofing.  Many were purchased for use on
boats or at the beach - or in a foxhole, maybe.

I'm always amazed at the quality of the speakers.  They've really held up.
The combination of those speakers, which are suspension mounted or
isolated -- and the very well made wooden cabinets makes for very listenable
sound quality.  I've been tempted to use one in "phono" mode as a sound
system for a '390 or '392.

Anyway, the "stag" covering can usually be restored with some glue and ..
black shoepolish.  Just glue down the areas which have become loose.  Any
frayed or missing small areas, like the corners can be detailed with some
black paint or black "liquid rubber".  Work it in and duplicate the pattern
as the stuff  sets.  Clean the surface with a brush.  Use only the mildest
of cleaners, if any.

Polish as you would a good pair of shoes -- Kiwi paste applied with a soft
applicator brush to work it into the pits in the stag.  Then use a good
quality shoe brush -- better if it has been broken in -- with soft natural
bristles, not the stiff plastic type.  If too stiff, the bristles may damage
the stag finish.  Brush in several directions to clear the excess out of the
pits.  Then buff with a soft buffing cloth.  This increases the gloss on the
raised part and brings back the look of the stag.  As with shoe-polishing,
let it set, come back and buff again.  The shoepolish aroma will dissipate,
and no, it won't come off on your hands.  The shoepolish treatment restores
the black and also helps preserve the cover.  It is suggested in at least
one of the owner's manuals.

If it's bad enough, someone sells a close match to the original stag
covering, but that's usually not necessary.

There are some TO lists which are pretty good.  One is
"Transoceanic-Fanatic" on yahoo.

Barry