[R-390] Gear train lubricants

Mon, 28 Apr 2003 20:25:35 -0700

Synthetic is synthetic. They don't evaporate. That's why they are the only
lubricants for gas turbines and such. Thicker is better for the gear train
as it is less likely to wander. You can get synthetic wheel bearing grease
if you talk to your local race car parts store. I use RedLine 75-90 gear oil
and their CV/wheel bearing grease for everything needing lubricant. Well,
almost. My Audi quattro has 286K miles on RedLine, still gets 5K/quart,
original clutch, though that's my fault, I take it outta gear at the
stopsign even. But the running gear is original and still breaking in as far
as it feels.

Bob
Portland, OR

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]On
Behalf Of Dan Merz
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:19 PM
To: Terry O'Laughlin; R-390 List
Subject: Re: [R-390] Gear train lubricants

Hi,  another data point....  in a sea of 390 experience.   I have some Phil
Wood's around somewhere that I bought when I was into bicycle lub tasks.  I
thought about using it when I starting cleaning my 390a but instead followed
the "conventional wisdom" posted somewhere about Marvel M O and Mobil 1.
I'm
glad to hear that Phil Wood's grease works so well.  Maybe I'll dig it out
and
see if mine has congealed yet,  hi.  As I recall it was still pretty "juicy"
and flowed out from the light green plastic toothpaste type tube it came
in - I
may have tossed it because it was about 30 years old 2 years ago.  Another
data
point may have been lost,  but maybe today's Phil Wood's grease is different
than the stuff I had.   Dan.

Terry O'Laughlin wrote:

> The best lubricant I have found for a freshly stripped and cleaned R-390
> gear train in Phil Wood's bicycle grease.  The viscosity is perfect, it
> does not creep and it maintains the same viscosity for years.  It makes
the
> gear train feel almost silky, which is no mean feat.
>
> I did my first R-390A with it seven years ago and the tuning still feels
> almost silky.  I use lacquer thinner to strip the old lubricants, but I
> also clean and relube the slug rack.  I clean all the slug rack rollers,
> guides and cams with swabs and lacquer thinner.  I use a swab to put a
thin
> coat of Phil Woods on the appropriate edges of all the rack parts.
>
> I've done three complete cleanings this way.  They still feel great (two
> have been sold).  It's a one time job with no need to pull the radio for
> periodic lubrication.  Oil does not evaporate.  Every re-application is
> just replacing oil that migrated somewhere else inside your radio.  I
> wouldn't do that to my R-390s.
>
> Phil Woods is commonly available at better bicycle shops and it works
great
> on bicycles as well.
>
> 73     Terry O'     WB9GVB
>
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