[R-390] New (to me) R-390A

[Barry Hauser]

I've been able to get V207 out and in again without removing any hardware --
maybe nearby tubes.

If you have an IERC heat dissipating shield, they're friction fit.  Just
grab the top edge with a needle nose pliers and pull up -- maybe with a bit
of wiggle action.  The shiney bayonet ones are generally easer.  Just put a
small screwdriver into the one of the spring retainer slots and rotate --
make sure you're going in the right direction.  It will pop up, then fish it
out with the needle nose or a bent paper clip.

OH -- just remembered, before starting, work the tuning knobs to raise the
slugrack for maximum clearance.

After you've got the shield off and out of there, you can use one of those
wire tube pullers, or I've found the tong type to be even better.  These
look like kitchen tongs, but with "tooobuler" shaped ends coated with that
tool handle rubber dip.  They were originally made for use as tube pullers,
then repackaged (by GC for example) as tongs for use in etching PC boards.
(Just don't squeeze too hard ;-)  Another trick is to use some adhesive
tape -- electrical, duct, scotch, whatever and work it onto the sides of the
tube, then pull up while gently wiggling.  The same method may be used to
lower the tube into position, then press down on the top (with some kind of
cushion so the "nibbie" doesn't puncture your index finger.)

If the tube or tube shield are stuck, well that's another story.

Barry

> Hi, Mahlon,
>
> Ah, yes, V207 lurking under the hardware...
>
> The shield and tube will come out OK.  Depending on how big one's
> fingers are, the neighboring tubes and the crystal oven may have to come
> out first.  I think a heat dissipating tube shield uses less headroom
> than a spring loaded shiny one.
>
> 73 de Norman KG4SWM
>
>
> Mahlon Haunschild wrote:
> > My first technical question for the list:  how the heck does one remove
> > V207 without removing the slug rack and camshaft running across the top
> > of the tube shield?
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