[R-390] New (to me) R-390A
Bryce Ringwood
[email protected]
Thu, 23 May 2002 16:33:03 +0200
Hi Mahlon - welcome.
Don't forget to visit the "Pearls of Wisdom"
http://www.r-390a.net/pearls.htm
Wonder where all the IF output cables go? and the locks too. Same place
as all my left socks, I suppose :) - Bryce
>>> "Barry Hauser" <[email protected]> 05/23/02 03:33PM >>>
>New (to me) R-390A
Welcome aboard .. :)
> Well, I guess I'm one of those who stumbled across the (very few)
> R-390As at Dayton ths year, because one of them followed me home.
They have invisible feet.
>
> Wow, what a beast. Should go well with my Ranger.
Yup, but keep it away from some of the smaller radios you listed.
Might
squish and eat 'em.
>
> It appears to be a 1967-vintage EAC unit (s/n 1997) by the tag, but
the
> modules appear to have been all made by Motorola.
Might be a repro tag or swapparoo, which is traditional. Motorola is a
good
outfit -- at least it's one that's still in business.
Bad rebuild job on
> one plug-in cap (which I will correct, along with rebuilding the
> other).
Cosmetics? or it doesn't work?
No other visible modifications. Ballast tube appears to be
> intact. Factory meters (!). They still glow, too (it seems that
the
> half life of the radioisotope is longer than 35 years, at least).
I think the half life of the radium is something like 5000 years --
but,
like the joke goes about the end of the world, "we'll see." Actually,
it's
the phosphor that usually "wears out". Even if they don't glow, don't
disassemble and eat the meters.
Has
> what appears to be a Progresstron PTO (I say this only because it is
> obviously not a Cosmos or Collins, and because the remains of the
two
> PTO decals resemble what I see at
http://www.radioera.com/r390a.htm).
> Tuning mechanism not gummed up like some of the photos I've seen on
the
> web, but obviously in need of a good solid cleaning. Rear panel
carries
> a different serial no. (4274) than the front panel tag shows.
Again, typical.
Obviously
> well used; paint wear on the front panel around the kc change knob
from
> fingers, gloves, etc.
"Eyebrows" or battle scars.
>
> Items missing:
>
> - the dial lock assembly & knob (the locking disk is still present
on
> the kc change shaft)
> - top & bottom covers (the coil cover is present, though)
> - IF output cable (but I have some MBs)
> - PTO tube retainer clip, bracket & screws
> - the odd screw/washer here and there
You can probably get most of the odd parts from Fair Radio -- e.g. dial
lock
assembly/knob. They have repro top, bottom and "Utah" (rf) covers.
You
might want to get a made up cable for the IF output from them -- won't
be
new, but maybe not worth using the new MB's for that. Pick up a little
box
or two of short stainless 6-32 screws from "Ace is the place". Some
list
members have spares and will probably let you know soon.
>
> Have read most of the web wisdom on the receiver, so with a ready
supply
> of Orange Drops and hv electrolytics I am about to plunge into the
> pre-firing-up safety refurb (e.g. replace the capacitors mentioned
by
> WA4HHG).
>
> Was lucky to find a 500 ohm line transformer in the flea market, too.
I
> had lots of positive karma this year, it seems.
You're doing well ...
>
> If anyone out there can help me out with the missing parts, or can
help
> me positively identify the PTO, or perhaps knows the name, address
and
> phone number of a good psych counselor in northwest Florida (just in
> case), please write.
Heh heh ... Make sure he's a qualified Boatanchor Shrink. Regular
ones
don't understand us. Also, they can't solder worth a dam, so what good
are
they? And, boatanchor shrinks make house calls, which is highly
necessary
with our condition. You can spot 'em on the street -- instead of a
black
bag, they carry a cooler with a six-pack in it, except one can is
DeOxit ;-)
Barry
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