[R-390] Flux Solvent Question
Bill Smith
[email protected]
Wed, 26 Jun 2002 20:11:29 -0700
Very interesting regarding Simple Green et. al. I have used Fantastic with
good success, and ammonia with glass cleaner as a rinse on big rigs. I
don't know what I used to clean (poison?) a Johnson edge-wound coil, but
later tested it after I couldn't get it to resonate and found the
graphite-colored insulator material was conductive. Possibly 409,
Pine-Sol, or one of the bubblies you refer to below. I could measure
continuity with an ohm meter. Using the original pieces as models, the
three insulator bars were reproduced with lexan plastic. Must say the
result looks sharp and of course works well.
73 de Bill, AB6MT
[email protected]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Huether, Carl x7985" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 11:02 AM
Subject: FW: [R-390] Flux Solvent Question
>
>
>
>
> Isopropyl alchohol is OK if the flux is reasonably fresh. For old dried on
> residue, acetone works well. We use both at work on microwave PC material.
>
> The assemblers also use TECHSPRAY "AMS GENERAL DUTY FLUX REMOVER".
>
> At home I use GC "FLUX-OFF".
>
> As with any solvent test it first as some plastics may be affected.
>
> One thing NOT to do is use any cleaner such as Simple Green, Super Clean,
> Scrubbing Bubbles and the like around HV. It will result in HV breakdown,
> particularly on phenolics. I learned this the hard way when I tried
> cleaning a SB-200 power supply board. Flushing with alcohol or water didnt
> help since the product was absorbed into the pheonolic.
>
> With any solvent or cleaner, have plenty of ventilation and wear
gloves/eye
> protection as appropriate.
>
> Carl
> KM1H
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Glenn Little [mailto:[email protected]]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 1:18 PM
> To: Scott, Barry (Clyde B); [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [R-390] Flux Solvent Question
>
>
> Barry and the group,
>
> It depends on the flux. Most flux that you will run into is RMA (rosin
> mildly activated). This can be removed with a flux cleaner specifically
> formulated for to job, or by denatured alcohol. This is not the 70% that
> you get at the drug store. You might be able to find 91% at the drug
> store. THis is fine. You can also get denatured alcohol at the paint
> department of your local store. If you get into a bind, Vodka or
everclear
> from your local spirits shop also work fine. If the flux is unknown you
> mighr want to try water first. There is a noclean flux that requires
> special treatment to remove. If you start to see a white liquid when you
> apply alcohol, you have a noclean flux. Do not go any further with the
> cleaning unless you want to get the correct chemistry or you want to use
> lots of alcohol.
>
> I usually tilt the board against something on the bench with some paper
> towels under the edge of the board. I then apply alcohol at the top of
the
> board with cotton swabs. This lets the flux saturated alcohol collect on
> the paper towels. I continue with the alcohol bath until the board is no
> longer sticky.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> 73
> Glenn
> WB4UIV
>
> At 09:48 AM 6/25/02 -0500, Scott, Barry (Clyde B) wrote:
> >On the subject of soldering, what is an appropriate solvent to use to
> >remove excess flux?
> >
> >Barry(III) - N4BUQ
> >_______________________________________________
> >R-390 mailing list
> >[email protected]
> >http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/r-390
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> Glenn Little [email protected] QCWA LM 28417
> Amateur Callsign: WB4UIV [email protected] AMSAT LM 2178
> QTH: Goose Creek, SC USA (EM92xx) ARRL TAPR
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