[R-390] How to finish a front panel
scott
scott" <[email protected]
Sun, 30 Jun 2002 20:49:26 -0400
I tried the popular "spray 10 VERY light coats method" and it did not work
to my liking. It filled too much of the lettering, even with waiting 5 to
10 minutes between coats. The mineral spirits in the paint does not flash
fast enough and the paint tended to "self level", filling in the lettering.
Plus the surface had "orange peel" I did it twice this way and stripped it
both times. I did not like the texture of the finish or how much was in the
lettering.
Try this and I guarantee your panel will be smooth as glass and look like it
was done in a factory.
1) First strip and sand lightly with 220 till surface is clean. Use BRASS
brush to get old paint out of lettering.
2) Spray with self etching primer or other aluminum primer. Spray
several light coats until just covered.
3) When dry, sand with 400 paper till perfectly smooth.
If you go through the primer, just touch up those spots.
4) Get Benjamin Moore Impervo enamel (or equal) from a local paint
dealer. Pick a color, or have them use the computer to match the old color
perfectly. (do this before you strip!!). I used a flat paint. Semi-gloss
is not original and I personally think that a gloss, even a semi, will look
cheesy (Just my humble opinion)
5) Thin 25-30% with mineral spirits and load into spray gun. Spray
lightly, I mean MIST the panel until primer is invisible.
6) Let paint harden for a day then sand with water and 600 paper until
smooth as a baby's ass. Rinse off thoroughly and make sure sanding slurry
is out of lettering.
7) You will sand through into the primer in several spots but don't worry.
Spray again just MISTING the panel until it is covered.
8) You can repeat the sand and mist routine one more time if necessary, but
I did not need to. Make sure when you sand you only sand just enough to
smooth the surface. This is the hardest part- knowing when to stop. So
take it easy and sand lightly. The smoother you make the sub-surface, the
better the panel is going to look.
9) Let the panel dry for a day. Bake for 250 for 2-3 hours. I put mine
in my barbaque grill with the burner set at the lowest setting. I had to
prop the lid open about 4" to keep the temp inside down to 250.
10) That's it. Panel is done. A very important aspect of spraying enamel
is making sure the room is dust-free. My garage is certainly not, but I tip
toed in and sprayed then tip toed out. All turned out well. Now on to the
letters....
11) I found a very easy way of filling the letters. So much so, that I had
them all perfectly filled in half hour.
Here it is:
12) Get a bottle of acrylic craft paint in a color of your choice.
Squirt a little bit on an area to be filled. use a small hard rubber
squeege to press the paint into the letters and scrape the top clean.
13) After waiting a few minutes for the paint to set up a little, dampen a
tissue and gently wipe off the residue left behind by the paint. The panel
comes perfectly clean and the paint is left in the lettering. Just don't
push too hard when wiping. Very easy to do. The enamel is rock hard after
baking and it cleans up perfectly.
14) That's it. I predict I should be able to do my next panel from start
to finish in about 2-1/2 hours total time. Not bad. I can't wait for
another one!! Bring on the non-a!! I hope I did not miss anything here,
but I may have.
15) I used Eastwoods "chassis epoxy" for the knobs and I really like the
way they look. Plus the epoxy is about the most durable paint you will find
in a spray can.
There are a few pictures of the panel and the filling of the lettering on my
webpage. Go to:
http://home.earthlink.net/~polaraligned/_wsn/page2.html
It is worth the trip (I hope).
Let me know what you think of this method.
Scott