[R-1051] Frequency standard adventures ...
Jan Skirrow
jan at skirrow.org
Mon Sep 25 11:45:54 EDT 2006
Hi Dennis ...
The potting material was a green - very hard - coat. The break was well
away from it. I tried lacquer thinner and acetone to soften it - the
acetone touched it, but is was going to be a long job. I was about to
get my Dremel tool out to grind it away when I discovered the broken
lead. The oven does run hot, and I'd think failure of any of the
components would be elevated greatly given that these things operated
24/7. I have a number of new PTC resistors from mil surplus. None are
the correct part or value, but if I have one fail I do have some
possibility of getting the thing working again with a somewhat changed
bridge.
Cheers
Jan
Dennis McLaughlin wrote:
> Jan,
>
> I had the same problem. The transistor lead corroded at the
> transistor just where the sleaving ended. Did yours have a blob of
> putty over the transistor, PTC resistor, and terminal block? Mine
> did. I was thinking that something in the putty was corrosive over
> time and operating at high temperature. The transistor operates at a
> high case temperature (approx. 70 deg C). The junction will be even
> higher. Max junction temp for the transistor is 200 deg C. Type
> 2N4238. 60Vceo, 6W Pd, 3A Ic. Gain is 30 to 150 @ 500mA. This
> transistor takes a beating.
>
> I installed an all plastic TO-220 style out of an old computer power
> supply on the base plate and ran wires up to the bottom of the oven.
> Refilled the bottom of the oven with spray insulating foam (Great
> Stuff). Worked for a while, then the PTC resistor failed. I haven't
> found a replacement for the PTC resistor. Tried a NTC thermistor.
> Inverted the feedback, etc. But no success.
>
> The later designed ovens used in the G and H models moved the
> transistor from the bottom of the oven to a bracket mounted on a
> additional circuit board. The heat transfers into the cover through
> metal fingers on the bracket. Transistor type 2N3441.
>
> The three spare frequency standards that I bought from Murphy's
> Surplus had either bad PTC resistors, bad transistor in the bottom of
> the oven, or cooked circuit board in the oven. The trim pot that
> sets the temperature of the oven must also fail. Wiper opens up?
> Drives the open into overtemperature?
>
> Dennis McLaughlin
>
> Jan Skirrow wrote:
>> I have several 1051s, and several different versions of the internal
>> frequency standard module. One extra module was in my junkbox, as the
>> oven was kaput altho the oscillator itself worked but way off freq. I
>> have a need for an oven for another project, and decided to see if I
>> could fix this one - I know the ovens have been a source of problems
>> in the 1051s, and if the oven isn't working, you can be pretty sure
>> the oscillator will be well off frequency.
>>
>> As everyone likely knows, the oven element is in the collector
>> circuit of a DC amplifier. The DC amplifier is driven by a circuit
>> that contains a resistor bridge to set current to the heater coil.
>> One of the bridge resistors is a sensistor bonded to the metal oven
>> shell and responds to temperature. Another arm of the bridge has a
>> trimmer to set the operating temperature of the oven. Quite a nice
>> little circuit. It will take awhile to reach its intended temp, but
>> holds well once it does and the std is remarkably stable.
>>
>> I think Cecil Acuff once told me that a defective sensistor was often
>> the problem with the oven. But mine tested fine. The DC amplifier
>> transistor (in this version anyway) is in a TO-5 metal case, and is
>> press fitted to the oven shell so that it is heat-sinked. The
>> transistor tested open. So I decided to remove it (no small task as
>> it is cemented in place) and replace it with a similar transistor I
>> had. But when I clipped the collector lead off the heater coil
>> terminal, the wire fell apart (it was in a piece of clear plastic
>> tubing.) It had corroded thru despite being gold plated but the break
>> wasn't visually obvious. When I connected the remaining collector
>> stub back to the heater, the assy worked perfectly and the oscillator
>> was on-frequency once the oven was at temp.
>>
>> So, the lesson in all this is to not assume that a freq std oven
>> problem is the sensistor. The plastic sleeving on the collector lead
>> was heat-discolored (this baby runs hot!) and the break wasn't
>> noticeable until I had freed up one end.
>>
>> Jan
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