[Premium-Rx] Desoldering [WAS: Tantalums...]

[Charles P. Steinmetz]

Dave wrote:

>Further to Dan's comments on the strange leads. I find the best way 
>to remove the tants from an RA-1792 / 6790, is to cut them of from 
>the top side of the PCB's then while applying heat, pull them 
>through from the underside. Then clean out the old solder with 
>decent quality desolder braid.

This is good general advice for removing components, both from PC 
boards and also from point-to-point wired equipment (it is much 
easier to get wrapped component leads free if they are not attached 
to the component).

For PC boards, it is really helpful to have a set of SMALL flush 
cutters with a steep angle between the cutting edges and the handles, 
so the handles can be close to perpendicular to the board rather than 
needing to be close to parallel (these are generally called "oblique" 
or "angled head" cutters).  The remaining bits of the leads and the 
solder can then be easily sucked into a vacuum desoldering tool, 
leaving beautifully clean, tinned holes.

A good vacuum desoldering tool is absolutely essential when working 
on through-hole PC boards, IMO.  As Antonio mentioned, when using a 
spring-pump "solder sucker," best results are obtained if you heat 
and suck from opposite sides of the board.  Also, if you spring for 
the ceramic tip instead of the plastic one it comes with.  Still, 
once you've used a proper vacuum desoldering tool, you won't ever go 
back to the old ways....

Best cutters I've found for PC component removal:

<http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-32728/Flush-Oblique-Front-Cutter.aspx>

Others (the Xurons are exceptionally good for the price):

<http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-32722/Flush-Oblique-Angled-Cutter.aspx>

<http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-XUR-280-IIAS/Xuron-280iias-Shear--Anti-Static-Grips.aspx>

<http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-XUR-280-II/Xuron-280ii-Shear--Angled-Head.aspx>

<http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-45821/Esd-Safe-Flush-Cut-Cutters-45.aspx>


Best regards,

Charles