[PCR-1000] pcr1000 power

[A10382]

My PCR-1000's (1997 vintage) wall wart is 12V, 1000ma, center hot.  I can't
imagine it's changed any since then...

Common problems:

1) Using a wall-wart supply with incorrect voltage and/or polarity.  On some
devices, wrong polarity is not fatal.  On others IT IS.  Using a supply that
is supplying too high a voltage (i.e.; using a 12V brick on a 6V device)
frequently 'fries' something in the device being powered.

2) Using a 'cheap' wall-wart.  Almost all consumer product wall-wart
supplies are 'cheap ones'.  While they may adequately power the device in
question, manufacturers frequently find the wall-wart as a place to save a
few pennies.   The wall-wart supplies are almost always 'switching' power
supplies which are significantly less expensive than a 'regulated' supply.
In order to keep costs down, many (almost all ?) wall-wart supplies do not
have adequate filtering and can be electrically noisy or even radiate their
own 60hZ rf.

3) Using a wall-wart of insufficient amperage.  Using one too low may result
in the device not working properly - and this can be a difficult problem to
diagnose.  Using one with too high an amperage rating (i.e.; needing 200mw
and using a 1000mw supply) may result in the supply being noisy or without
enough current draw to maintain a steady and proper voltage.  A completely
'unloaded' 12V wall-wart can supply as much as 15V.... just use a dvm and
measure the supply at the dc plug without it being attached to anything.

All three of the above noted 'problems' usually occur when the user buys a
replacement wall-wart.   Although not usually one of my favorite suppliers,
Radio Shack has an 'ala-carte' wall-wart display where you select the
appropriate supply (voltage and amperage) and power cord separately.  Be
sure to have the correct voltage, polarity, AND power needs (i.e.; 1000ma).
Different plugs can look very similar so it's best to bring along either the
existing wall-wart - if you have it - or the device itself (or both) .

A number of users did previously post problems associated with using a
replacement supply - mostly of too low a current capability.  If you have
multiple 12V devices, your best bet may be to buy a good bench-top power
supply and power all your 12V devices from it - be sure to fuse each
individual DC lead.  I use an Astron 35 Amp bench-top power supply to power
(in addition to a base transceiver) an additional 6 devices - works well.
It has meters for both voltage and current.

--------
Even 'regulated supplies' (like the one in your PC) frequently require a
load on at least one of it's voltage supplies (the 5V supply for a PC) in
order to regulate the 12V side.  Old PC supplies do make good 12V bench
supplies - but usually cannot be adjusted up to 13.8 needed for a lot of
mobiles.  Usual max is about 12.5V for the 12V side.  A recent amateur radio
magazine has a write-up on recycling old PC power supplies for use with low
power transceivers.

Frank
 ._._.


----- Original Message -----
From: "rtv" <rtv@wwnet.com>
To: <PCR-1000@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: [PCR-1000] pcr1000 power


> can anyone verify the wiring of the power connector on the pcr1000    is
> the center conductor positive? (as usual)   i have run into a few on
> other stuff that are not,   i dont want to burn up a new radio before i
> turn it on!
---
Outgoing email Certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/17/02