[NJARC] Speaker repair...

Fri May 30 17:28:57 EDT 2014

Thanks to everyone for all the responses. I figured that a few of you 
may have tried to repair rather than replace or recone a speaker.

FYI, the speaker is a 1929 Atwater Kent console model, 11" diameter, so 
the 1/4" tear is a minor one and all the material is still there. So it 
won't require a "massive patch", and distortion shouldn't be an issue.

Seems the two most common repair mediums are coffee filter paper and 
fabric softener sheets. I am going to look through my collection of 
speakers for a suitable "victim" to experiment on and try various 
methods on it before repairing the AK speaker.

I have coffee filter paper and was thinking of using a "used" fabric 
softener sheet. Once used they become less dense (guess all the 
chemicals impregnated in them comes out) and very flexible. This reduces 
the chance of the glue reacting to whatever they put into the sheets.

It seems Elmer's Glue and wood glue, watered down and painted on is the 
most common adhesive used. I also use the Permatex Flowable Silicone 
Windshield & Glass Sealer for many repairs and wondered if it might be 
useful here (I keep a spare new unopened tube on hand at all times, 
great stuff). So it will also be tried.

The surprise was searching out Plasti Dip for potential use and finding 
people also use it. Of course the manufacturer recommends it for speaker 
repair, take that for what its worth. I will try it as one of the repair 
methods I use.

Using another speaker for experimenting on makes sense and allows me to 
compare results w/o the risk of damaging the AK speaker. It'll be a 
while before I can find enough tools around the house to us the Plasti 
Dip on, so the speaker repair will sit on the back burner for a while.

Once the Plasti Dip can is opened the shelf life clock starts ticking. 
Might as well do everything at one time for best results. I'll try to 
remember to take both notes and pictures of the project and post the 
results here.

Rgds,
Louis

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>    1. Re: Speaker repair...more (w2wiq1 at juno.com)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 17:19:58 GMT
> From: "w2wiq1 at juno.com" <w2wiq1 at juno.com>
> To: oldradio at comcast.net
> Cc: kd4hsh at juno.com, NJARC at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [NJARC] Speaker repair...more
> Message-ID: <20140528.131958.21961.0 at webmail11.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
> 
> IN SERVICE DURING WWII WE USED NEETS FOOT OIL ON OUR WORK SHOES AND BOOTS.DRESS SHOES WE USED SHOE POLISH FOR THAT SHINE.
> 
> RADIO SERVICE CEMENT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER.
> WE USED IT FOR ALL GLUEING INCLLUDEING CONE REPAORS AND REPLACEMENT.
> DUCO CEMENT IS SIMILAR BUT THINNER.
> I LOOK AT THE RIDICULOUS PRICE FOR THE RSCC AND THINK MAYBE THAT AMBER COLOR HAS SOME PRECIOUS METAL IN IT.
> A COUPLE YEARS AGO I HAD AN EMPTY BOTTLE TO REPLACE AND THE BOTTLE HAD INCREASED X7.
> WITHIN A YEAR THAT 3/4 FULL WAS SO THICK AN UNUSEABLE EVEN THOUGH I HAD THE CAP AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE.
> THE SOLUTION THAT IS WORKING FOR ME IS TO MAKE THE CAP AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE BUT WHEN FINISH PUT IT INTO ASMALLEST POSSIBLEZIP BAG TO SEAL IT FROM THE OUTSIDE.CHEAPER THAN SPENDING $10.50 FOR A BOTTLE.AFTER 2 YEARS IT IS STILL THIN AS WHEN PURCHASED.I KNOW IT WAS A FRESH BOTTLE BECAUSE I HAD TO ORDER IT.
> 
> WALTER-W2WIQ
> 
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: oldradio at comcast.net
> To: Robert Lozier kd4hsh <kd4hsh at juno.com>
> Cc: NJARC <NJARC at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [NJARC] Speaker repair...more
> Date: Mon, 26 May 2014 16:10:52 +0000 (UTC)
> 
> Just remember
> Reply = Poster
> Reply All = Everyone
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> A friend used to coat the entire speaker cone with Neetsfoot oil to help renew dried out speaker cones.  Do this after any repair work, not before.  The glues won't stick to the cone once oil is applied.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYHL6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000B3ASR&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1RKC8GDHEAH8C24FYSYY
> 
> This combination of natural and synthetic oils is used by saddlemakers and bootmakers to soften, preserve and waterproof. It lubricates the fibres which restores suppleness.
> Great For Use On Outdoor Leather Gear Such As Boots & Baseball Gloves.
> It Lubricates The Fibers Which Restores Suppleness.
> 
> ---------
> 
> Also he used Radio Service Cement, which is still available.  I recently used some on my projects with success.  Also works good for gluing wires and things to the wall of the chassis or plastic or pvc box, to hold them in place.
> 
> http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/GC-ELECTRONICS-10-302-/20-875
> 
> For gluing porous or semiporous materials together or to nonporous materials
> * Vibration resistant
> * Great for repairing speaker cones
> * Quick drying, waterproof and clear
> * 2 fl. oz. bottle with brush $10.49 
> -------------------
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Lozier kd4hsh" <kd4hsh at juno.com>
> To: "NJARC" <NJARC at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 11:18:08 AM
> Subject: [NJARC] Speaker repair...
> 
> Just remember
> Reply = Poster
> Reply All = Everyone
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> Here is my two cents on speaker cone repair...
> 
> 1. What kind if speaker are you needing to repair?  
> 
> Is it for Hi-Fi or is it for say... before 1937?  Or is it a cheap
> speaker for an AA5?
> 
> There reason for asking is to assess the relative distortion by the
> acceleration of a relatively asymmetrical massive patch on the true
> conical portion of the cone.
> 
> If it is a Hi-Fi speaker, you want to keep the patch as light and RIGID
> as possible....  If both sides of the tear are accessible, use Scotch
> REMOVABLE tape on one side to hold the tear together.  You should be able
> to get the tear to butt almost perfectly this way.  Then you can take
> coffee filter paper (because it is very thin and porous) and cut a thin
> strip to follow the tear line.  Glue it down with slightly thinned
> Tite-Bond wood glue.  Once the glue has dried, you can then paint alcohol
> or lacquer thinner around the edges of the Scotch tape (it won't affect
> the wood glue.).  The solvent will wick under the tape and cause the
> acrylic adhesive to get gummy and release...  Then take a Q-tip to rub
> off the tape gunk... (easy)  Then just paint a ridge of the wood glue on
> the back side of the tear.
> 
> The result is that you have bridged the tear without having introduced
> much sonic distortion.  The bonded fiber dryer softener sheets are much
> thicker and load up with much more glue to significantly increase the
> mass of the repair.
> 
> If you are working to repair tears in the suspension between the cone and
> the speaker basket, this mass problem is not so much a concern.
> 
> One new thing I have found for repair in this area of the cone where
> FLEXIBILITY really is desired is flowable silicone adhesive.  Look for
> Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer - Here the dryer
> sheets concept is useful although I would recommend you go to a local
> fabric shop and look at the various weights of bonded polyester liner
> material because I don't know if the perfumes, etc. in the dryer sheets
> compromise adhesives.  I have even used a couple of strips of panty hose
> out there on the edge to good effect!
> 
> Since the older cones are paper pulp with a lot of sulphur they really
> are loosing a LOT of strength.  I've even started getting proactive in
> some cases and just going ahead and painting on the silicone around the
> outer suspension.  It soaks in beautifully.
> 
> Robert
> 
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> End of NJARC Digest, Vol 121, Issue 22
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