[NJARC] 3RP1 CR tube/Heathkit HO-10 Monitor Scope

[Martin Friedman]

My technique is a little different. Although I would sometimes press against
the key from the rear ( this only can be done if the socket is hollow in the
center) I would gently pry between the socket and the base  working it off
with a small flat screwdriver moving it around the periphery, being careful
not to tilt it so much as to break the key.
Marty F

-----Original Message-----
From: njarc-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:njarc-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of w2wiq1 at juno.com
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 4:22 PM
To: ng19delta at yahoo.com
Cc: njarc at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [NJARC] 3RP1 CR tube/Heathkit HO-10 Monitor Scope

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_________________________________________________________
HI ALL:
HERE IS A TECHNIQUE I HAVE USED FOR MORE THAN 70 YEARS TO REMOVE CRT  TUBE
SOCKETS AND TUBE BASES.FOR CRT TUBES I USE A SCREWDRIVER WITH ABOUT A 1/4"
WIDE BLADE AND HOLD IT AGAINST THE TUBE BASE KEY WHILE GENTLY ROCKING AND
PULLIMG THE SOCKET. TUBE EQUIPMENT I  PUT PRESSURE ON THE KEY USING THE
SCREWDRIVER AND GENTLY ROCKING THE TUBE BASE AND USING A LITTLE PULLING AS
ROCKING.. VOILA!NO MORE TUBES WITHOUT BASES.
HOPE THIS TIP IS USEFULL IN THE FUTURE.

WALTER FROEHLICH-W2WIQ


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Scott Roberts <ng19delta at yahoo.com>
To: NJARC Radio Club <njarc at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [NJARC] 3RP1 CR tube/Heathkit HO-10 Monitor Scope
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 10:22:50 -0700 (PDT)

Just remember 
Reply = Poster
Reply All = Everyone

_________________________________________________________
Wow... Long Subject line...

Anyway, Simple question: First(as usual) the backstory:

I purchased the HO-10 scope with a couple known problems, so I decided to
follow advice from a guy who works on them and not only recap, but
re-resistor the whole item. No problem, simple stuff. However, in so doing,
when I went to remove the CRT tube (3RP1) the base cap pulled off the wires!
It was held very tightly by the socket, and literally pulled off the end:
the adhesive had given up the ghost, and they pulled free of the solder, or
the very ends of the wires came off.

So now I have an unkeyed tube with a bunch of good condition wires, and a
cap to refit.

Looking at the schematic, would it be correct to assume that the only two
wires I could read continuity between would be the heater connections? I
looked over the schematic and found pins 5 & 11 were not used by the tube
itself, and I determined where the gaps between wires were spaced to go to
the pins on either side. I then looked at the line burned into the screen,
and determined orientation, and checked alignment with the cap. It appeared
to be correct, and my thought was that I could confirm by checking
continuity through the heater, as it would be the only place I would find
it. I assembled the cap to the tube after cleaning, fluxing & tinning the
leads, just have to find my Duco cement to glue the base.

Simply put, is my above assumption correct?


Thanks!
Scott
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