[NJARC] Grill cloth question now fuses
Aaron Hunter
ahunter01 at comcast.net
Sun Mar 25 09:01:36 EST 2007
That would protect the outlet you're plugging it into, I'm not sure
about the radio. There is a certain amount of startup current drawn by
the tubes until they warm up. I don't know how much it is and you would
have to allow for it or the fuse would blow when turned on. You could
use a slow blow, but I don't know if the transformer would be protected
enough. Maybe the lack of B+ on turnon offsets the excessive current
drawn by the tubes. I think this requires a study. I have to stop work
on my genealogy and get back to my radios and do some testing. (without
smoking the transformer, of course.) The weak link is the high voltage
windings.
I pulled out my tube manual to get an idea of current draw. The tube
filaments alone draw 38.125 watts in your radio. But the part I misread
on the rectifier is the DC current draw. 440 ma is the peak allowed on
one plate with 125 being the max operating current. At 360 volts, it
works up to 45 watts. So my 1/2 amp fuse would probably allow for max
smoke! The tube might not pass enough current to blow the fuse and the
winding is probably not rated much more than 2 or 300 ma. A 2 or 300 ma
fuse should protect the B+ winding at the center tap, but a 7/8 amp fuse
at the line cord might not. As I said, needs more study.
Any more thoughts on this out there?
Aaron
Edward Otte wrote:
>Aaron,
>
>
>As far as the fuse, the only paper documentation inside the unit defines it
>as a 100W unit. That makes it about an 830 mA draw. Maybe a 7/8 would be a
>close match. But then again, I was thinking to fuse the input AC. Why is
>that not best?
>
>Edward
>
>
>
>
>
>
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