[Mobile-Portable] Bonding Connectors, Fasteners
Gary Fiber
gfiber at comcast.net
Fri Dec 30 11:32:45 EST 2005
Robert,
I have filled the braid with solder and drilled a
hole, also rolled the end of the braid in some #
10 wire ring connectors and heated the connector
barrel and sweat soldered it into those. I
generally use Serrated lock washers and sandwich
the bond strap between two of them. In the past I
have used stainless steel No. 8 sheet metal
screws, usually phillips pan head. If you have a
couple of drill motors,one with the proper size
bit and the other with a #2 driver bit,
installation goes pretty fast. On the frame I use
what ever size bolt and lock washer is necessary
or drill my own hole for the bond. From my screw
driver antenna I use flat copper strap about 2
inches in width. I use a Dremel tool to grind off
the paint where I am going to bond, then I have
been using electrical No-Oxide compound to
protect from rust and promote a good electrical
connection. The NO-Oxide compound is the stuff
sold for connection of copper and aluminum wire
together. I did not try to go under existing
fasteners and like rings as they can't pull from under the screw.
I bond the radiator support to both fenders, both
fenders to the firewall, both sides of the hood
to the fenders at the firewall and run a strap
from the firewall to the frame. On my old pick
up I did the bed on each side, the tail gate, the
doors to the front posts, the cab to the frame on
each side and the tail pipe in a couple of
places. I placed a couple of bonds from the engine to the frame too.
I found it helped with noise and a side effect
the lights had a better path to ground so they
lasted and worked better over the years. None of
one light going out when you hit the brakes stuff.
With the new electrical fuel pumps I placed a
ferrite clamp on EMI Suppression Cored
Ferrite, clamp-on the power leads. I would have
used a couple of feed through caps but I kept
thinking they might go into trouble and open on
some dark rainy night at a most inopportune time.
The clamp on's seemed work. There are a few
different material mixes that work I used Mix 43 material.
Others likely have different ideas but this has worked for me. Hope this helps.
Gary K8IZ
At 07:13 AM 12/30/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings:
>I am getting ready to RF Bond a couple of vehicles. I
>have a supply of RG8 braid for any connections that
>have to flex and a supply of 3in wide Cu roof flashing
>for connections that don't have to flex.
>But I am having a little difficulty deciding what
>types of end fastenrers, screws, bolts, washers, lugs,
>etc that I will need and how to connect certain
>vehicle parts. It seems that it will take several
>types of end connectors for doors & hoods, tail pipe,
>engine block to frame, radiator to frame, etc. I
>woule appreciate any comments, suggestions regarding
>fastener types that will be needed for a fairly
>complete vehicle RF bonding job.
>Thanks much.
>Robert N6OI
>
>
>
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>----
>Your Moderator: Dick Flanagan K7VC, mobile-portable-owner at mailman.qth.net
Gary Fiber K8IZ
GROL PG-19-6691
Washington State Resident
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