[Mobile-Portable] Want advice

[ke4sky at att.net]

Floyd,

Did you see the additional info on the FT5100 fan control thermistor mod which I posted in Elmers on eham.net?  I lost your email address and posted additional info on several eham forums in hope that you'd find it. 73


--
Ed Harris 
(w) 703-324-5224 
(h) 703-280-1247 
(mobile) 703-501-1400 



-------------- Original message from Floyd Soo : -------------- 
> David Weilacher wrote: 
> 
> > Hi; 
> > 
> > I am so new to this that I don't even have a license yet. (Expect August 
> test) 
> > 
> > I would like a radio suited to both my pickup truck and my sailboat. 
> > 
> > So far my interest is general. 
> > 
> > Can anyone reccomend something specific to make a good starter setup? 
> > 
> > Thanks. 
> > 
> > 
> > Dave Weilacher 
> > .US Coast Guard licensed captain 
> > . #889968 
> > .ASA instructor evaluator and celestial 
> > . navigation instructor #990800 
> > .IBM AS400 RPG contract programmer 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> 
> Dave, 
> 
> We have some things in common... 
> 
> I operate from my Chevy Trailblazer, from my 36' express cruiser and 
> from that vessel in her slip. All 3 situations are different and 
> require different attention to details. What's common is my rig, an 
> Icom 706 MK IIG. As far as a rig is concerned, the 706s, the FT-100s (or 
> any of the latest tiny mobile HF, VHF, UHF rigs) will be fine in these 
> services. I had the opportunity to use the TS-50, the FT-100 and the 
> IC-706 in the shack at the same time to compare. I even had the 
> opportunity to check on the different versions of these rigs; suffice to 
> say that they are fairly close, some rigs do some things better than 
> others, but considering that these tiny "dc to daylight" rigs have so 
> many features packed into such a small package, they really are 
> fabulous! I'll leave the discussion about the rigs for another time... 
> 
> As far as the antennas are concerned, I use a custom "bug-catcher" style 
> antenna on my SUV. It is 13.5' from the ground to the corona ball. It 
> has a large coil just above the center of the antenna with taps for 
> different bands. The other half of this system is the remote controlled 
> antenna tuner that sits at the feedpoint of the antenna. It has a 
> motorized vacuum variable cap in it to resonate the sys, as well as a 
> tapped torroid and 12VDC relay bank to select the proper tap in the 
> torroid to properly match the feedpoint impedance. This antenna sys is 
> good for 10 dB, at times, when compared to Hustlers, Hamsticks and 
> Outbackers (like having a KW compared to 100W!) 
> 
> With that said, I still use a set of Hamsticks regularly! On the higher 
> bands, like 15M, 17M, 20M and even 40M, these antennas work very well 
> for what they are. (The Hustlers on these bands actually work well too, 
> but I prefer the Hamsticks and ProAm whips because they are lighter and 
> offer less wind resistance.) I use a triple magnet mount for my 
> Hamsticks on vehicles other than my SUV. So when I am in my XYL's (or a 
> friend's) vehicle or in a rental vehicle, I can use this antenna system 
> and get good results from it. 75M Hamsticks are just a little bit too 
> much a compromise, but they do work, albeit marginally. What you have 
> to keep in mind is the other half of the antenna sys and that is the 
> counterpoise (commonly referred to as "ground"). The ground that we are 
> talking about here is RF ground, not DC ground. If this portion of the 
> sys is working correctly, the antenna will radiate! My triple magnet 
> system capacitively couples to the metal body of the vehicle (thru the 
> paint and pads) enough that most times I do not have to do anything else 
> for grounding, especially on the higher bands that I mentioned above. 
> The crapshoot is whether or not the cigarette lighter system in the 
> vehicle will allow you to run 100W or not! Some do, some don't! If it 
> doesn't, you will have to run at reduced power levels (unless you can 
> get a more direct connection to the battery). Every installation is 
> different in that regard AND in the QRM (noise) regard! Again, a topic 
> for another time... 
> 
> I use the same Hamsticks on my vessel when I am cruising around the 
> Great Lakes. I have a clamp mount that I secure to the bow rail at 
> anchor or tied up at a transient slip. The bow rail is the counterpoise 
> and this system works as well as it does on the vehicles! 
> 
> In my own slip, I have a 1960s vintage Webster Marine SSB whip that was 
> originally designed for the 2.5 Mc band. I have secured that 21' whip 
> to the wood piling at the end of my finger pier. At the base of that 
> antenna I place a SGC SG-239 auto-tuner. The ground of the tuner is 
> connected to the metal pilings and latticework (and the seawall) under 
> the finger pier (with wire braid). I run coax and power to the tuner 
> and can operate all HF bands from below, automatically! 
> 
> On many a blow-boat, rag-baggers have used an auto-tuner in the 
> lazarette (or somewhere astern near the top of the transom) to load up 
> on the back stay. Consult an experienced marine electronics tech so you 
> can be sure that sys has the structural integrity that you need, in 
> addition to the RF integrity that you want! 
> 
> As far as grounding is concerned, everything in the ship's ground should 
> already be bonded together (should be green wires in the bilge). If 
> this is not sufficient, many a mariner has laid copper foil in the 
> bilge, below the waterline in an effort to gain more metallic area. I've 
> heard good and bad about those grounding plates you can bolt on the 
> transom, tho' I have never used one myself. Whatever you do here will 
> determine how efficient your antenna sys will be! 
> 
> Bottom line is this: Any of the new-fangled, small HF rigs will 
> suffice; you just have to figure out your own preferences or find the 
> best deal on one. As far as antennas, start with a set of Hamsticks, as 
> they are cheap and much more pleasing to the untrained (unappreciative) 
> eye. Yes, they are narrow in their bandwidth and power handling 
> capability and you have to change antennas to change bands, but they 
> WORK and at $10 to $20 each, they are affordable! If you decide to use a 
> more permanent mount on your pick up, make sure you have a good RF 
> ground connection (books have been written on this subject!). Your next 
> option will be something like a small screwdriver style antenna 
> (ATAS-100, High Sierra, Predator...), but it needs a much more robust 
> mount (sure is convenient, tho'!)... 
> 
> There are several place for great info, books, web sites, etc. I am 
> involved with the HF mobile antenna shootouts that our 3875 Gang 
> sponsors in Anderson, IN. We've been comparing HF mobile antennas, 
> twice a year for almost a decade now. We've learned a lot and are still 
> learning! We've had hams from as far away as California come and 
> compete! If you want more info, go to: www.kj9t.com and check out the 
> "shootout" stuff (btw, you'll see a pic of my stink-boat on that site 
> too). You are going to begin a journey (of learning) that will 
> encompass the rest of your time that you will spend in this wonderful hobby! 
> 
> Have fun and hope you find fair WX and calm seas... 
> -- 
> 73, 
> Floyd Soo, W8RO 
> President, HI-RES Communications, Inc. 
> President, Collins Collectors Association (member #2) 
> floyd at hi-rescom.com 
> http://www.hi-rescom.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---- 
> Your Moderator: Dick Flanagan K7VC, mobile-portable-owner at mailman.qth.net