With a #3 center drill, you can drill out the smaller hole and leave it with the correct .125" sleeve size for the connector pin. Use lots of lubricant. More importantly, it will maintain the center location of the original hole, a process that is almost impossible using a tapered file. (I've tried...)

Robert

How much effort do you think would be required to open up those three #16 contacts in a 28-8P connector to accept #12 contacts using a tapered Swiss file? A half day's work versus patiently waiting for a couple of years seems worthwhile, doesn't it?

Regards,

Jim

Logic is a systematic method of coming to the wrong conclusion with confidence. Murphy

On Thursday, November 5, 2026 at 07:43:14 PM CST, Robert Goff <[email protected]> wrote:

Seems like this subject comes up every few years.

Here is Robert Down's response to me back in 2012:

________________________________

Sorry, but the connectors are NOT AN 3108-28-8S or P. They are actually AN

3108-28-767S or P. Which were custom modified from the 28-8. That's why

they are so difficult to find. Amphenol does not appear to have actually

made any -28-767 inserts. To add to the confusion, most if not all of the

modified inserts that I have seen still have -8 molded into the face. The -767

was only marked on the barrel (and not on all of them, either). The

difference is that the 28-8 has 10 #16 and 2 #12 contacts. The 28-767

has 5 #12.

three of the holes for the #16 (A,B,C) were bored out for #12.

I think Bill Perry has been sold out of the proper connector for at

least 15 years. I finally did find an original cable just by patiently

watching ebay. It took a couple years and shipping from Italy, but I

got it.

Good Searching,

73,

de Robert W7MKA

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