Thanks, Mike et. Al.

I see where the relief is. But I think the snap ring is in a position where there is zero space behind it at the spot where the relief is. I have tried (and bent) every tool I own that could possibly assist in this effort. The most promising was pushing a “T-pin” down the relief while attempting to pry the ring with a tool in the gap of the ring. But I could never get the ring to budge to allow the T pin in behind the ring.

I’ve also tried to rotate the ring in hopes that there would be a place to get this pin behind the ring (using the relieve) but I could never get it to budge.

I think I will just attempt to do the soldering with the middle shell in place. I don’t see another alternative.

But thanks to all, at least I understand now how it is supposed to work!

73 Eugene W2HX
Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos

From: Michael Hanz <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2022 5:04 PM
To: milsurplus@mailman <[email protected]>; W2HX <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Milsurplus] ART-13 DY-17 U10?

Here's a better view of the process:

On 5/28/2022 4:34 PM, Michael Hanz wrote:

As others have noted, there is a small relief in the aluminum shell into which you insert a small pointy thing.  If the previous tech did it right, the end of the ring should be quite close to the relief.  If not, be sure to put it back that way when you return it to the shell. 

I use a jeweler's screwdriver, but also have a second tiny screwdriver to help.  Once you get the ring to compress inward away from its groove, then insert the second screwdriver into the gap to keep the ring from snapping back into the groove.  Then begin moving the first screwdriver on around the inside of the aluminum shell, using the second screwdriver to keep raising the snap ring away from the groove and away from the phenolic.  Eventually you'll get the snap ring to the point where you won't need the second screwdriver and it will come out.  Wear safety glasses!

I use a watch repair vise on a heavy steel plate to hold the shell.  It's the greatest thing since sliced bread to make cables.  With four posts it won't crush the connector like a machine vise.  They are very inexpensive.  Something like this, though there are a lot of variations: 


          73,
 - Mike  KC4TOS

On 5/28/2022 3:32 PM, Kenneth G. Gordon wrote:

Others here will have more, and more accurate info, but as I remember it, there was some 
discussion on this very topic some years ago.
 
The insert can swell over the years, making it almost impossible to remove.
 
I think either or both Dave Stinson and Robert Downs were involved in that earlier discussion. 
Maybe Mike Hanz also.
 
Ken W7EKB
 
On 28 May 2022 at 19:05, W2HX wrote:
 

    Hello all,
 
    I am working on wiring up this DY-17 dynamotor for use with the ART-13.
 https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10.jpg
 
    Working to solder up U-10 for the DC input to the dyno, I have removed the back shell/strain 
    relief to access the solder cups. The cups are pretty deep inside and so I also removed 3 screws 
    around the perimeter that appear to allow one to remove the middle shell to give more room 
    to access the solder cups.
 https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10b.jpg (you can see one screw removed)
 
    However, for the life of me, I can´t get the middle shell to separate from the contact block of 
    the connector. What am I doing wrong? When I look down inside, I see something that could 
    possible be a snap ring, but there are no places to grip the ring to retract it, and even if I use a 
    screw driver I can´t get it to move or anything. Maybe it isn´t a snap ring.
 
    Here is the inside:
 https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/U-10a.jpg
 https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10c.jpg
 
    Is there a secret to separating this?
    Thanks
 
 
    73 Eugene W2HX
    Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos
 
 
 

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______________________________________________________________
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